Good Eats April 22 2000

Our critics’ guide to Atlanta restaurants

Seafood?



Indigo Coastal Grill, 1397 N. Highland Ave., 404-876-0676. Reopened after yet another makeover, the restaurant’s once funky décor has been smoothed to a near-corporate sheen. Fried seafood, big salads, comforting side dishes (couscous, cheese grits, shoestring fries) and gooey desserts are still tops. Service by a clean-cut, knowledgeable staff who’s textbook sharp. - EM

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen, 2830 Windy Hill Road, Marietta, 770-984-8899 and other locations. Who’d have thought a chain serving enormous volumes of food could be this good? Spectacular etouffée, lovingly prepared gumbos, delicately broiled seafood and mountains of fried stuff are turning out crowds that cause 90-minute waits. Go early. Real early. - CBB


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Cajun?



Gumbo A Go-Go, 1405 Oxford Road, 404-687-0031; 736 Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-874-8620; 3256 Cobb Parkway, Marietta, 770-303-9970; and 11770 Haynes Bridge Road, Alpharetta, 770-777-1441. Head to the Emory Village location for a rough jewel where students wolf down dirt-cheap portions of the best jambalaya around. The second location on Ponce (by Tortilla’s) offers the same Cajun-Creole dishes, like Big Chief Crazy Gumbo and, when it’s in season, crawfish etouffée. - CBB

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen, 2830 Windy Hill Road, Marietta, 770-984-8899 and other metro locations. Who’d have thought a chain serving enormous volumes of food could be this good? Spectacular etouffée, lovingly prepared gumbos, delicately broiled seafood and mountains of fried stuff are turning out crowds that cause 90-minute waits. Go early. Real early. - CBB

Somber Reptile’s Cajun Kitchen, 842 Marietta St., 404-881-9701. Snackery in a quirky music hall (walls black, smoking encouraged, no coffee) is westside headquarters for shrimp, oyster and andouille sausage po’ boy sandwiches, fried okra and cold suds. Sonny bubbas in uniform and men in suits hit it hard at lunchtime on weekdays. - EM

Ya Ya’s Cajun Cuisine, 426 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-373-9292. David and Leslie Lester have hit the big time in Decatur. Lunch offers the best po’ boys in town and dinner means very good (roux-less) etouffées and gumbos. Try the grilled boudin and “snapper courtbouillion.” - CBB


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Chinese?



Chicken World, 5150 Buford Highway, 770-458-5164. Give your honey a choice of menudo, Buffalo chicken wings or moo goo gai pan here. Chino-Mexicano. It’s not the best food in town, but it is most definitely a happening. - CBB

Chopstix, 4279 Roswell Road, 404-255-4868. One of the most popular Asian-style restaurants in Atlanta, where elegant Chinese fare is served by candlelight to a rather upscale audience. Gourmet classics from shrimp to lobster to sweetbreads are prepared Hong Kong style - everything’s top-notch. - SSS

Chung Ha Chinese-Korean Buffet, 5979 Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-455-7370. Foodies with a taste for experimentation will appreciate the extensive display of Asian foods as well as a helpful, informative staff. Highlights include Korean barbecued meats and hors d’oeuvres, nuggets of marinated chicken, unusual soups and noodles. Very affordable. Sunday brunch draws after-church mobs.- EM

Doc Chey’s Noodle House, 1424 N. Highland Ave., 404-888-0777; 1556 N. Decatur Road, 404-378-8188. A pan-Asian noodle house for yuppies. Great sense of humor, great style, great appetizers. - CBB

Grand Buffet II (Chinese), Buckhead Crossing, 2625 Piedmont Road at Sidney Marcus Boulevard, 404-760-9967. Grand Buffet II offers Buckhead location at Southside prices. The bountiful Chinese-American spread has notable “wow-golly” appeal. Much of the food tastes fresh. Grill cooks prepare many items in small batches just behind the serving line. Platters and trays are replenished often. - EM

Harmony Vegetarian Chinese Restaurant, 4897 Buford Highway, Chamblee, 770-457-7288. Curry flavors (noodles, dumplings) and moo shu vegetable wraps are tops at this minimally decorated newcomer. Stick with greenery and skip the imitation beef and fish. - EM

Kong Lang, Orient Center, 4897 Buford Highway, Suite 125, Chamblee, 770-986-9168. Classy Cantonese barbecue and roast pork specialist, with seafood an added attraction, spins off (and up) from affably grungy, always reliable Ming’s BarB.Q. Restaurant nearby. Service, amenities and décor nearly match the delectable cuisine. - EM

Little Szechuan, Northwood Plaza, 5091-C Buford Highway, Doraville, 770-451-0192. There’s no trick to dining well at the state’s best Chinese restaurant. Order almost anything unusual. Balance unfamiliar dishes with a like number of the family’s favorite dishes. Figure on one platter per guest. Relax and sip your tea. Of particular interest: stir-fried mo shu vegetables, sizzling beef brisket, eggplant with garlic sauce, Szechuan cold noodles. - EM

New Paradise Chinese Restaurant, 4795 Buford Highway, Chamblee, 770-936-0306. Located near the south end of the Chambodia business strip, this small, neat storefront offers affordable, authentic cuisine in simple surroundings. Foodies and similarly adventurous diners should order from the white Asian menu. A red tourist menu is available for those who prefer safer shopping-center fare. - EM

P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, 500 Ashwood Parkway, off Ashford Dunwoody Road, 770-352-0500. An only partially successful attempt to mate Chinese cookery with the American casual-chain concept, this is essentially a Bennigan’s with egg rolls. Service and cuisine are thoroughly Americanized. Evocations of China consist almost entirely of Asian-style decorations. Orange peel shrimp is a safe choice. - EM

Pyng Ho, 1357 Clairmont Road, 404-634-4477. This is a popular and authentic Chinese restaurant outside the main Buford Highway corridor. Thus, many who find the ethnic experience intimidating will be more comfortable here. By all means, stick to the menu of evening specials. A whole fried red snapper drizzled in black bean sauce is amazing. - CBB

Royal China, 3295 Chamblee Dunwoody Road, Chamblee, 770-216-9933. New owners have overhauled the former Honto to mostly good effect. Although the Cantonese cuisine is highly erratic, the elegant décor and new restrooms make a visit almost mandatory for old hands. On balance, try dinner rather than lunch, vegetables and seafood over meat. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Continental?



Babette’s Cafe, 471 N. Highland Ave., 404-523-9121. Situated between Inman Park and Virginia-Highland, this lovely cafe escapes both glib trendiness and Martha Stewartness. The dining room is romantic and homey. Herb-crusted lamb chops, risotto specials, fried oysters atop a dill biscuit are recommended. Desserts are killer. - CBB

Eclipse di Luna, 764 Miami Circle, 404-846-0449. Paul Luna and James Ehrlich have created one of the most pleasant dining rooms in town. Lunch features delicious sandwiches, soups and quiches; evenings offer a tapas menu that is the best in town. Little Spanish-style marinated ribs, grilled octopus, skewered prawns and luscious Manilla clams are among the offerings. - CBB

Seeger’s, 111 W. Paces Ferry Road NW, 404-846-9779. Beard Award-winning chef Guenter Seeger’s new stand features resourceful contemporary-continental cuisine, small portions, prix fixe menus with big prices, elegant service and a minimalist postmodern decorative scheme that fits the food like sauce over fish. Reservations recommended on weekends. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Italian?



Aromi, 1025 Virginia Ave. NE, 404-607-0220. With a brightly lit neon store front just a few doors east of the Virginia-Highland intersection, Aromi has sweets, coffee, gelato crepes and panini. Gelato flavors include peach, raspberry, lemon, banana, chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, chocolate chip and more. Lightly press-grilled panini are served on foccacia and come with chips. And as if all this weren’t enough lure - the coffee’s great, too. - SL

Ciao Bella, 309 Pharr Road, 404-261-6013. Simplicity is the approach here. Order big, white bowls of perfect pastas - with wild mushrooms or mussels and anchovies. Prices are low, the crowd is convivial and the staff is thoroughly Italian. - CBB

Cipollini, 1529 Piedmont Ave., 404-875-5001. John Carver, formerly of Pricci, has taken over saucy Ciboulette and its talented chef de cuisine, Ofer Ayal. The haute bistro dining room sports a clean, spare, faux marbre makeover that’s in tune with modern Italian design. Cooking is updated Italian-American, with salads, pastas (especially strazzopreti - “priest stranglers,” thin tubes with veal sauce) and meat entrées making the biggest impression. - EM

Eno, 800 Peachtree St. at Fifth, 404-685-3191. Conceived as an extremely comfortable laboratory where food and drink pairings may be explored, Doug Strickland’s and Jamie Adams’ Mediterranean bistro could raise the standards of corporate Atlanta’s drinking classes. Food is fashionably Cal-Italian - lots of olives, olive oil, fruit, fresh fish and seasonal ingredients. The cooking is first rate, the crowd Midtown hot. Sidewalk tables, wine room, tastings featured. - EM

Fratelli di Napoli, 2101 Bennett St., 404-351-1533; 928 Canton St., Roswell, 770-642-9917. Big-deal, super-size takes on Little Italy specializing in homestyle platters serving two to four. Chicken with eggplant, spinach salad with gorgonzola dressing and tiramisu are standouts. Dinner nightly. Reservations for six or more. - EM

Grappa, 3097 Maple Drive, 404-262-9749. Soups and salads are best bets at this Tuscanized Buckhead bungalow inhabited by co-chefs Lynne Gigliotti (Gigliotti Culinary Concepts, Grapevine Café, Azio) and Christophe Vessaire (Resto des Amis, French Embassy, Washington, D.C.). Dinner only. - EM

La Grotta, 2637 Peachtree Road, 404-231-1368. This is one of Atlanta’s longest-running fine dining experiences, evidenced by the ’70s décor and Italian cuisine. Try the tuna carpaccio and the roasted quail stuffed with sausage. - SSS

Luna Si, 1931 Peachtree Road, 404-355-5993. Who’d think that “old faithful” and “cutting-edge” honestly could belong together? That’s exactly so in this remarkably affordable restaurant with a strong contemporary Italian influence. Convivial and quirky themselves, the Luna brothers have created one of the city’s most reliable choices. - CBB

Pastificio Cameli, 1263 Glenwood Ave. SE, 404-622-9926. Retro pasta parlor in East Atlanta gentrification zone offers delectable fresh pastas, salads and soups in stripped-back, contemporary surroundings. Deck and sidewalk tables offered in nice weather. Dinner only. - EM

The Patio, 1029 Edgewood Ave. (across from the Inman Park MARTA station), 404-584-8945. A killer redo of the old Deacon Burton spot, with an especially wonderful patio. Pastas and pizzas are the main fare. Inexpensive. - CBB

Savage Pizza, 484 Moreland Ave., 404-523-0500. Among the best local sources of real, hand-thrown, honest-to-Palermo pizza, this slightly bent independent in L5P is notable for fresh ingredients, homemade sauces and clever, knowing service. Wide selection of pizza toppings and calzone fillings. Good for takeout. Smokers’ porch. - EM

Sotto Sotto, 313 N. Highland Ave., 404-523-6678. As a place to dine extremely well, see friends and plug into what people are talking about, Riccardo Ullio’s Italian outpost in Inman Park hardly can be beat. Pastas, risotti and desserts are winners, as is the high-energy factor. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Thai?



Little Bangkok, 2225 Cheshire Bridge Road near Lenox Road, 404-315-1530. Now it can be told: Some of the best Thai food in town is at this absurdly inexpensive hole in the wall. Pay close attention to evening specials like chicken with eggplant or spicy squid. Seasonings are fiery, portions are very large and ingredients always include a few surprises. The menu also features Chinese cuisine. - CBB

Northlake Thai Cuisine. 3939 LaVista Road, at Montreal Road, Tucker, 770-938-2223. A slightly less glamorous cousin to Midtown’s spectacular Tamarind, the strip center showplace holds its own in tropical décor, Bangkok ambience and reassuring air of formality. Though the cooking shows less finesse, the cuisine, by the standards of the neighborhood, also is a standout. Starters (duck salad, fried squid, coconut-chicken soup) are worth particular attention. - EM

Satay Ria, 1861 Peachtree Road NE, 404-609-9990. An Intown find. The younger, SoBuck brother to Buford Highway’s Little Malaysia offers mid-scale comforts, Malaysian-Thai cuisine (chicken satay, chicken curry, acar salad) and unusually good service. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Vegetarian?



Broadway Cafe, 2168 Briarcliff Road NE, 404-329-0888. Vegetarian fare, much of it kosher, can be inventive and quite tasty in this Druid Hills strip mall spot; who knew faux sausage could taste so good? - SSS

Harmony Vegetarian Chinese Restaurant, 4897 Buford Highway, Chamblee, 770-457-7288. Curry flavors (noodles, dumplings) and moo shu vegetable wraps are tops at this minimally decorated newcomer. Stick with greenery and skip the imitation beef and fish. - EM

Woodland Vegetarian Restaurant, 1080 Oaktree Road, Decatur, 404-321-6005. Larger and brighter than competing self-service Indian restaurants, this newcomer near Market Square Mall specializes in stuffed, topped and sauced pancakes and crepes. An affordable lunch buffet Tues.-Sun. is another good way to jump right in. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Vietnamese?



Song Long, 4166 Buford Highway, 404-320-9772. Bright star among a galaxy of Asian newcomers in Oriental Mall (the former Outlet Square), this Vietnamese specialist features eager-to-please staffers, budget prices, music videos and an extraordinarily complete menu. Don’t miss the cha gio (Vietnamese fried spring rolls) with lettuce and herb leaf wrappers, or the various rice-noodle soups. No credit cards. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Cuban?



Havana Sandwich Shop, 2905 Buford Highway NE (at the corner of North Druid Hills and Buford Highway), 404-636-4094. This modest restaurant’s delicious yellow rice is studded with green peas and covered with savory-sweet stewed tomatoes and onions (white rice is available as well), and its black bean “soup” with prominent onions and garlic, can easily make a meal. The mojo-marinated Cuban, served with pork, ham, Swiss cheese and pickles, is delicious. There also are plenty of savory vegetarian dishes and Jumex juices (try the mango), plus a variety of unusual sodas (try the Coco Rico). Also don’t miss out on the fabulous flan. - SL

Kool Korners grocery, 349 14th St. NW, 404-892-4424. Known for its Cuban Classic sandwich, this grocery/sandwich shop has been a source of food-induced euphoria for 13 years. Sandwich choices include ham, turkey, roast beef and pastrami with all the fixings, including jalapeño peppers. Press-grilled sandwiches have a crispy exterior where inside, the flavors emerge, mingle and melt together. - SL

Las Palmeras, 368 Fifth St. NE, 404-872-0846. Cuban neighborhood cafe is noted for black beans and rice, fried plantains, authentic entrées, friendly welcomes and faster service than might be expected. A smokers’ deck is pleasant in nice weather. Purchase beer and wine at the grocery next door or BYOB. - EM

Mambo Restaurante Cubano, 1402 N. Highland Ave., 404-876-2626. Lunch service is notable for Cuban Sloppy Joe sandwiches (grilled Cuban loaves stuffed with picadillo and ropa vieja). The regular menu offers traditional entrées, salads and other island delights. Outdoor tables available. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>French?



Brasserie Le Coze, 3393 Peachtree Road (in Lenox Square), 404-266-1440. The next best thing to Paris, this upscale bistro is consistent and top-notch. Fresh seafood and desserts always are safe bets and the wine list is affordable. Tiled walls, mirrors and suave service make you forget you’re in a mall. - SSS

Cafe Boheme, 453 Moreland Ave. NE, 404-522-4373. Sit-down bistro fare, with wines and beers to match. Low prices, hearty portions and French ambience make it worth the jaunt to L5P.- EM

Le Saint Amour, 1620 Piedmont Ave., 404-881-0300. New chef, traditional country French cooking. Blanquette de veau, rabbit pâté, soufflés, that kind of thing. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Fusion?



Fusebox, 3085 Piedmont Road NE, 404-233-3383. A slick Buckhead destination for the city’s young, black-clad, New Yorker wannabe crowd, with a dazzling communal table right up front, sophisticated music, Y2K lighting, Asian antiques, attitude that’s surprisingly soft and an East-West menu that’s Fusion Lite rather than up-to-the-minute. - EM

SoHo, 4200 Paces Ferry Road, 770-801-0069. Cleverly conceived, albeit ding-dong loud, shopping center bistro with pricey fusion menu. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>German?



Basket Bakery and Cafe at The Village Corner, 6655 James B. Rivers Drive, 770-498-0329. The best German food in our area, served in a delightful setting adjacent to Stone Mountain Village. Sauerbraten and rouladen are especially good. Enormous portions. - CBB


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Indian?



Planet Bombay, 451 Moreland Ave., 404-688-0005. L5P newcomer with thick, hearty soups (Mulligatawny, fresh mushroom), notable rice pilafs and Indian breads, good curried vegetable combinations and low prices. - EM

Udipi Cafe, 1850 Lawrenceville Highway, Decatur, 404-325-1933. Savory rice pilafs, spicy vegetable curries and spectacular stuffed crepes and pancakes are but four reasons to seek out the city’s newest South Indian vegetarian outlet. Sophisticated carrot desserts, traditional beverages and crisp breads double the pleasure. Table service is a plus. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Japanese?



Nickiemoto’s Midtown, Piedmont at 10th Street, 404- 253-2010. A clone of George Rohrig’s Buckhead sushi bar, this fast-track watering hole is more remarkable for burnished metal décor and intown haircuts than for its Asian-American food. To dine well, keep two words in mind: fried (squid, soft-shell crab hotpot, catfish) and desserts (ginger creme brulee, Vietnamese coffee float). - EM

Stoney River, 10524 Alpharetta Highway at Holcomb Bridge Road, Roswell, 678-461-7900. The mainstream runs through this steaks-and-sushi dinner house from the creators of Brookwood Grill. The wilderness lodge décor, upbeat service and decent sushi bar are much superior to the salty, overseasoned American food. No reservations. Expect long waits at prime hours. - EM

Yokohama, 2221 Peachtree Road NE, 404-603-5282. Reconstituted neighborhood sushi parlor with all-purpose Japanese-American menu (noodles, tonkatsu, teriyaki steak, ice cream) fills an independent niche on a busy intown strip. Tender tempura squid is a tasty treasure. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Malaysian?



Malaya, 857 Collier Road, 404-609-9991. A tiny room in a modest storefront belies the wondrous repertoire of traditional Malaysian dishes available. For an introduction to this spicy crossroads cuisine, don’t miss coconut soup laced with shrimp and chicken, acar (pickled salad with peanuts), rendang (an aromatic beef stew), curried salmon with okra, and spinach sautéed with okra. Chinese menu also available. Good for takeout. Now serving beer and wine. - EM

Penang Malaysian Cuisine, Orient Center, 4897 Buford Highway, Chamblee, 770-220-0308. Clever, classy take on the crossroads cuisine of Malaysia, one of Asia’s sleeping tigers. Whole fish with Thai sauce, pancakes with chicken curry, satays, noodles and crisp vegetables - all with a moderately spicy kick - are authentic, approachable and well prepared. The setting, a bamboo summer house with all the latest conveniences, matches the upbeat, sunny ambience. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>Mexican?



Burrito Art, 1259 Glenwood Ave., 404-627-4433; Tower Walk, 3365 Piedmont Road, 404-237-0095; and 1451 Oxford Road, 404-377-7786. East Atlanta is the original home for this restaurant by Ryan Aiken, a young chef who trained at Indigo and Partners and developed the extraordinary opening menu at Terra Cotta. Now, the boy’s cooking burritos! But these are amazing creations that feature the likes of barbecue chicken, roast pork and chile relleno. - CBB

El Portal, 2157 Briarcliff Road, 404-320-1888. Homestyle Mexican specialties (garlic shrimp, chilaquiles, quesadilla rellena) in a storefront in the north-of-Emory district. Prices are peso-low. - EM

Frontera Mex-Mex Grill, 4606 Jimmy Carter Blvd., 770-493-8341; and 5070 Stone Mountain Highway, 770-972-3366. Sunday brunch at two locations of the local chain features energetic ranchera music, heady fiesta atmosphere and a succession of unusual Mexican specialties. Spice levels, thought toned down, are still lively enough to tickle gringo tongues. - EM

Noche, 1000 Virginia Ave., 404-815-9155. The nuevo New Mexican chow at this boutique cantina, while extremely inconsistent, combines campfire flavor with comfort food accessibility. Stylishly fitted out and moderately priced, with good service, it may be considered a flashier alternative to Sundown Cafe. - EM

Santa Fe Cafe, 123 E. Court Square, Decatur, 404-377-1399. Starter-kit New Mexican food, with upbeat service, in a vibrant center of intown redevelopment. Sidewalk tables recommended.- EM

Taqueria del Sol, 1200-B Howell Mill Road at Huff Road, 404-352-5811. Spin-off of popular Sundown Cafe is long on informality and comfortingly Americanized Mexican and Southwestern fare. It’s decidedly short on glitz, and guests order at the bar and carry their own drinks. Seafood specials can be really special. Old favorites - spicy turnip greens, jalapeño slaw and carnita tacos - are still worth saying “Olé” to as well. - EM

Tortillas, 774 Ponce de Leon, 404-892-0193. So many burrito shops have opened in town that we tend to forget the original and, in many ways, still the best. Nobody’s pinto beans come close to Tortillas. You don’t have to endure oniony seasonings, you get flawless guac and green sauce, and you still get plenty of bad attitude and crummy ambiance. - CBB

Zocalo, 187 10th St., 404-249-7576. Midtown’s former monument to mucho-Mexican mole has been mainstreamed and Americanized. The city’s best stuffed peppers, the still-peppy chicken mole and a collection of 150 tequilas don’t make up for greasy tacos, hard-edged service, hard-to-read menus, inappropriate music and uncomfortable chairs. Note that visitors with hotel room keys get a 10 percent discount. - EM


font face=”verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif” size=”4” color=”#330033”>American?



Aria, 490 E. Paces Ferry Road, 404-233-5208. After yet another redesign, the former Hedgerose Heights is being repositioned as a Buckhead-casual hangout for young, hot entrepreneurs and similarly questing fast-trackers. Gerry Klaskala’s accomplished American cuisine - slow-cooked chicken and beef, soups, grilled meats - and Kathryn King’s dreamy desserts more than make up for the half-baked, weirdly erotic décor by Bill Johnson Studio. -EM

Bacchanalia, 1198 Howell Mill Road. Atlanta’s best restaurant has moved. Owner/chefs Anne Quatrono and Clifford Harrison have set up shop in the newly trendy Westside industrial district. Stay tuned. - EM

Big Bad Burger Daddy’s, 307-B East College Ave., Decatur, 404-371-8700. Owner/chef Shaun Smithson’s sunny, mom-and-pop storefront near Agnes Scott combines cuisine-school know-how and upbeat, informal atmosphere. Burgers with an abundance of trimmings, spuds in various delicious forms and bargain-basement prices are the reasons to go. Smoking not permitted. Good for takeout. - EM

Canoe, 4199 Paces Ferry Road NW, 770-432-2663. Oh, to be up a creek without a paddle here! Cozying up to the banks of the Chattahoochee, Canoe is one of the loveliest restaurants in town, and Chef Gary Mennie’s New American fare is top-notch. Be sure to make reservations - this showboat’s popular. - SSS

City Grill, 50 Hurt Plaza, 404-524-2489. Located in the historic Hurt building, this is one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the city. The New American fare at this most elegant Peasant Group restaurant has been up and down over the years. You could get lucky. - SSS

Corner Cafe - Buckhead Bread Co., 3070 Piedmont Road NE, 404-240-1978. Breads, muffins, pastries and service are better than ever. Sandwiches (egg salad, chicken club, portobello mushroom) are among the city’s overstuffed best. Opens early for breakfast. - EM

The Earl, 488 Flat Shoals Road, East Atlanta, 404-522- 3950. This menu offers the traditional bar food assemblage, plus healthier alternatives including four vegetarian sandwiches. Burgers are big ‘n’ beefy and the steak sandwich can’t be beat. All sandwiches come with a choice of house salad, red beans and rice, baked potato, fries, pasta salad or beer-battered onions rings. Try the addictive skinny fries. - SL

Five Sisters Cafe, 2743 LaVista Road, 404-636-6060. Storefront with rumpus-room décor is neighborhood hub for suave sandwiches served by smiling staffers. - EM

Floataway Cafe, 1123 Zonolite Road NE, 404-892-1414. A Southern Chez Panisse from the creators of superpopular Bacchanalia, with exquisite, inventive dishes made from fresh, often organic ingredients. The stylishly retro décor fits the former-factory setting too well. - E.M.

The Flying Biscuit Cafe, 1655 McLendon Ave., 404-687-8888. This Candler Park restaurant, offering affordable, highly uneven cuisine, had an enormous impact on the city’s dining scene when it opened a few years ago. It is still one of the best values in town. The cuisine is New American with just the right touch of levity. - CBB

Harvest, 853 N. Highland Ave., 404-876-8244. Matching arts-and-crafts furniture, vases, flowers, fireplaces, dramatic curtains and a comfy bar make the Craftsman-style bungalow the perfect venue for chef Justin Ward’s weekday lunch service. Alas, as has been true since the restaurant’s January 1996 debut, the contemporary American cooking is still wildly uneven.- EM

Heaping Bowl and Brew, 469 Flat Shoals Ave., 404-523-8030. This restaurant in East Atlanta prepares inexpensive, wholesome food with occasional outré touches. It almost always works. But dining here is enjoyable because of the convivial ambiance. Perogies and greens and beans stew are recommended. - CBB

Highland Wraps & Pizza Kitchen, 1250 Virginia Ave., 404-872-2562. A mostly takeout operation in the Virginia-Highland neighborhood, this storefront charmer produces decidedly Americanized, albeit notably tasty meat and vegetarian burritos and tacos. - EM

In the Shade Cafe, inside the Wish-Fulfilling Tree Bookstore, 2329 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404-634-7411. Juices, sandwiches and light noshes are all fresh and delicious. Plus you get your spiritual high from sniffing the nearby incense. - CBB

Insignia, Chastain Square, 4279 Roswell Road, 404-256-4040. Accomplished Pacific Rim and American regional cuisine, plus a useful wine list draws customers willing to pay healthy prices. Proprietor David Abes and chef Pete Pavesic are well-trained graduates of Horseradish Grill, Buckhead Diner and the Atlanta Fish Market. The new venture includes a smokers’ porch and a cadre of knowledgeable, enthusiastic servers. - EM

Java Jive, 790 Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-876-6161. “The Cup That Pleases” definitely lives up to its name. The rich, faintly nutty cups of coffee accompany from-scratch biscuits, pecan or gingerbread waffles and well-stuffed omelets and veggie scrambles. Service is personable, reliable and unobtrusive. - SL

Mumbo Jumbo, 89 Park Place, 404-523-0330. Located in a treasure of a building, this bar/lounge/restaurant is a visual feast. And the New American cuisine, as interpreted by Chef Shaun Doty, ain’t bad either. Globally and seasonally influenced, the menu always changes often. You also can rely on an interesting crowd, from oh-so-chic to far-out. - SSS

Murphy’s, 997 Virginia Ave., 404-872-0904. This airy French-doored deli-and-beyond is always crowded - breakfast, lunch and dinner. Omelets and muffins are good, and soups and sandwiches are usually fresh. If the lines are too long, there’s always takeout. - SSS

North Highland Pub, 469 N. Highland Ave., 404-522-4600. This Poncey-Highland joint features an impressively large menu, imported and on-tap beer and a plethora of tunes on the jukebox. Of note is the Bacon Swiss Guacamole Burger, cooked to a perfect medium and served on a sesame seed bun. Onion rings, beating out the fries, are a delicious companion. Sizable salads are worth a whirl, too. - SL

The Palm, 3391 Peachtree Road NE, 404-814-1955. Steak and lobster are the name of the game at this expense-account eatery in Buckhead’s Swissôtel. Clubby attire is enhanced by the restaurant group’s schtick - caricatures of famous faces peering down on those who go to see and be seen. - SSS

Park 75, Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta, 75 14th St. NE, 404-881-9898. Rich, well-constructed New American cuisine in a luxury setting with prices to match. Initial menus from executive chef Brooke Vosika - transplanted from the extraordinary Four Seasons Olympic Hotel in Se






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