Bar Review - Built like a brick store pub

Henry: I’m going to ask you what everyone seems to ask me. Like, what do you do? ?
?Wanda: I drink.?
?        — Mickey Rourke and Faye Dunaway in Barfly

Drinking is about a feeling.

The right drink in the right glass in the right room at the right time is a goal worth pursuing.

I was feeling pretty contrary Super Bowl weekend. So while everyone headed for parties and sports bars, the wife and I headed for the one bar in Atlanta that has no light beer and no television — the Brick Store Pub in Decatur. We opted for fish ‘n’ chips and malty-sweet, full-bodied beers that stand on their own. The fish ‘n’ chips are among a number of salty counterpoints (like jumbo Bavarian pretzels and salt & vinegar chips) that make the beer seem even better.

The dimly lit Brick Store, wrapped in dark wood and, of course, brick, defines the word pub. At sunset, warm rays slash through the western-facing window. Families, neighbors and committed drinkers gather at the bar and at the crammed-together tables. The excellent selection of European beers, single malts and wines attracts a crowd that appreciates quality.

We settled onto barstools in the nearly empty bar (it’s rarely so most nights), and ordered up the house specialty, not found anywhere else and worth seeking out, La Trappe Trappist Ale ($5). Served in an 11-ounce snifter, it’s rich, sweet and satisfying. It’s even better when you let it warm up a bit in the glass so you can taste the complex flavors.

We also sampled the Sandeman’s Tawny Port ($7), which proved a perfect accompaniment to a frosty evening (if only we’d have one). It’s a fortified wine, but has little else in common with Mad Dog. A small sip reveals a sharp, sour-sweet berry flavor, not unlike a fermented cranberry juice. The alcohol seems to send warmth radiating from the skin. Pause frequently to enjoy the sensation.

The Brick Store, with its unique drinks and tasty bar food, is a good, good feeling.

125 E. Court Square, Decatur. Open Mon. 11 a.m.-1 a.m; Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m.; and Sun. noon-midnight. 404-687-0990. www.brickstorepub.com.??