Bar Review - Nestly, neighborhoody Cabbagetown Grill

I like to hang out at neighborhood bars that are not in my neighborhood. Nobody “knows my name” and I don’t talk to anyone but the bartender. I watch everyone else and eavesdrop ‘til I feel like I’m part of the crowd. To enjoy this kind of interloping, you have to sit at the bar, and the bar has to be a comfortable one because you may have to stay a while before things get interesting. So don’t get stuck at the corner of the bar at Cabbagetown Grill where the stacked stone comes out to the edge and you can’t get your feet under it — an annoying example of form over function. Get there early to get one of the limited comfortable spots. The bar is at the far edge of the open dining area, where if you’re set on eating you can order all manner of American comfort-type offerings like meatloaf and mashed potatoes.

The place looks great. Architectural details abound: curvy lines, oddly placed windows and doors. The stone, wood, dim lighting and decidedly casual atmosphere give it the feel of a trendy Colorado ski lodge. A mix of pseudo punks, well-dressed couples and regular Joes chat amiably. The servers are friendly and prompt. The jukebox spits out a selection as eclectic as the clientele, from the Clash to Cash (Johnny, not Roseanne). The bar has a decent selection of draft beers ($3.50 for a Sierra Nevada) and premium liquor (about $5.50). My Maker’s and water was served up fairly weak in a cut-glass juice tumbler like the kind that I have in my own kitchen. I like the no-nonsense glasses, but I would have mixed it stronger at home.

The contradictory elements of style and hominess add up to a neighborhood bar that fits its funky location. And you don’t have to live there to fit in — just slump over that drink and pretend.

Cabbagetown Grill, 727 Wylie St. Mon.-Thurs. 5 p.m.-midnight; Fri. 11 a.m.- midnight; Sat.-Sun. 2 p.m.-midnight. 404-525-8818.??