Restaurant Review - Gilbert’s

Configuring its cuisine under the broad-brimmed umbrella of Mediter-ranean, Gilbert’s is the newest addition to the up-and-coming intersection at the corner of Piedmont and 10th Street. Sporting a window filled with bright sun stencils and pouring upbeat music onto the sidewalk outside, this 2-month-old deli/sandwich shop/gourmet grocery has managed to nestle in amidst what is perhaps Atlanta’s most colorful cluster of businesses without making much of a commotion. This doesn’t mean it isn’t worthy of attention. With a brand-new kitchen complete with a gas grill right behind the deli cases, Gilbert’s has its heart in the right place. Shelves are stocked with a melange of tasty treats including truffles, cookies, cheeses, chips and candies from Jelly Bellies on up. In the deli case are homemade fruit tarts, baklava, stellar tiramisu, fruit salad, deli meats, tabouli, hummus, dolma and more.

The ethnic influences of the menu here span from Spain to the Middle East. For example, sandwiches include grilled lemon chicken, Mediterranean kabob (lamb or chicken), fontina prosciutto, Greek vegetable pita, grilled veggies and a snazzy tomato mozzarella and basil number, just to name a few.

One of the best sandwiches I’ve tried is the lemon garlic grilled chicken ($5.95). Grilled to a tender perfection (though lacking in lemon), it was served with lettuce, tomato and dark, sweet caramelized onions on a whole grain roll. A grilled fontina prosciutto sandwich ($5.95) was rich yet uncomplicated with its paper-thin sheets of the salt-cured ham and nutty melted cheese. The sandwich is served on a dry toasted whole grain bread and does better with a side of something soft and smooth ... something like, say, soup.

Gazpacho and cucumber ($3.95 per bowl) are the present summertime soups on hand. The former was refreshing and generally great. The latter was salty enough to be dumped down the drain. Other disappointments were the grilled vegetable sandwich ($4.95), which needed more of everything, and the tabouli ($4.25), dominated by parsley and a bit pricey for a side salad. Price does become an issue if big appetites are at work since, for the most part, the sandwiches are moderate in size and are accompanied only by a bag of chips.

Since sandwiches are prepared to order and often demand time on the grill, a word to the wise is to call in orders ahead of time. Call or fax (404-872-8062) in an order before 11 a.m. and you can have lunch delivered between 11:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m.

On a final note, I found Gilbert’s staff to be unwaveringly helpful and friendly. Really, this place has a generally upbeat air. There are, however, those kinks here and there that need to be worked out if Gilbert’s is to be a smashing success. In any case, I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

Gilbert’s, 219 10th St. 404-872-8012. Open Tues.-Sun. 9:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Menu items range in price from $3.95-$6.95.