Restaurant Review - Bakery deficit

Expanded Alon’s yet to realize its full potential

A couple of months ago, fortune smiled upon Alon’s Virginia Highland Bakery when Rocky’s, a small convenience store and its next-door neighbor, shut its doors for good. Alon’s owners saw their window of opportunity, and quickly began their expansion tour de force, effectively doubling the size of the popular bakery. The results of this process turned out to be a bit of a surprise because, instead of expanding the bakery’s bounty, owners decided to go the gourmet grocery/prepared-foods-to-go route.

The space is now divided into pastry and dessert display cases, a bakery order counter and two check-out stations. Generally speaking, the bakery’s interior has become more open, while remaining sunny and pleasant. Nonetheless, it’s difficult not to feel at least a little bit discontented with some of the food choices that have been made.

On one hand, they have the best thing going as far as cous cous in a plastic container is concerned. On the other hand, it’s disappointing that the opportunity for expanding a good bakery, especially in a part of town that suffers from a certain bakery deficit, is being missed.

Obviously if olives by the pound are what you want, then you pretty much have the pick of the gourmet grocery litter in just about any part of this gourmet grocery-lovin’ town. If you want almond brioche, on the other hand, you’re in for a little more of a hunt.

Alon’s still offers brioche now and then, but I’ve yet to show up on the right day. Even with the massive space expansion, you’ll still find the same old stuff in the bakery case (though it is, for the most part, very good stuff).

Other than its normal selection of breads, pastry desserts and modest selection of fabulous sandwiches, now there’s everything from olives and olive oil sold in bulk to teas, preserves, coffee mugs, cheeses, vinegar and a handful of wines to boot.

Most of the prepared foods are Mediterranean in nature, and all are thoughtfully prepared. BB-sized cous cous ($2.50) includes dried apricots, red onion, poblano peppers, olive oil, wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, garlic a dash of ginger, and should not be missed. Crunchy spaghetti squash salad ($2.50) made with pine nuts, strips of fresh basil and Parmesan cheese, has a texture as light and crisp as apples, and is layered lightly and evenly with pungent flavors.

Tabouli ($2.50) is also made in perfect balance, including just the right hint of mint. Chick pea and feta salad ($2.50) is yet another good choice. Actually there are just a few other selections to choose from in the prepared food section at this point. Though it’s nice to see owners choosing quality over quantity (and Alon’s can always be relied upon for quality) I still can’t help but think there is a lot of potential that has yet to be realized here.

Alon’s, 1394 N. Highland Ave. 404-872-6000. Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m-7 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Prices up to $7. Cash and credit cards accepted.