Cheap Eats - Spice eruption

Calypso Cafe brings volcanic taste of islands downtown

Many Atlantans, imagining rush-hour pandemonium, live in such dread of venturing downtown that they can forget the pleasant aspects. But those who actually work in and among the skyscrapers, or have lived in truly grand and cosmopolitan cities, know that being at street level can have advantages.
At lunch hour, for instance, downtown employees can merely step through their building’s front door, round a corner and have any number of restaurants to choose from. Most other members of Atlanta’s work force invariably have to get in their cars to find a meal, with the exception of the generic office park snack bar and grill. Atlanta may not have a renowned downtown dining district, but plenty of fine places can be found by those who don’t fear MARTA trains or parking decks.
One such spot is Calypso Cafe, an island of authentic Caribbean cuisine in the Fairlie-Poplar neighborhood. A spot for low-budget luncheons, it’s only a few blocks from both Centennial Olympic Park and the Rialto Performing Arts Center, and native Atlantans can enjoy the novelty of walking past buildings of stone, not glass.
Step inside the front door of the Walton-Forsythe building and you might think you’ve got the wrong place. Calypso Cafe occupies a large, boxy space with beige walls and fixtures and not only lacks the tropical flourishes you might expect, but has almost no decor of any kind, not even travel posters or funky tablecloths. The only reggae music to be heard echoes from the kitchen when the doors briefly swing open.
But the food satisfies Calypso Cafe’s clientele, which ranges from grungy Georgia State students to businessmen in serious suits and overcoats. You might be tempted to try the traditional Jerk Chicken ($6), a Caribbean marinating style rumored to be more than 300 years old. Be aware that Calypso’s peppery version arrives scorching hot in both spiciness and temperature. Imagine a chicken caught in a surprise volcanic eruption, plucked from the lava flow and brought blackened to your table, and you’ll get an idea of the tasting experience.
A milder sensation is the Spicy Brown Stew Chicken ($5.50), a quarter-bird simmered in a brown sauce that tastes faintly but pleasingly of the gravy you might get at a soul food joint. But so far my favorite entree has been the Garlic Conch ($6.50), sauteed with bits of chopped onion and tomato. The conch meat itself has an unmistakable shellfish texture — probably most like clam, for purposes of comparison — with the garlic offering a heady perfume. Conch dishes also come curried and fried, and the menu includes oxtail and curry goat as well.
Lunch entrees come with choice of two side orders, including black beans, cabbage and macaroni and cheese, but I’d stick with the fluffy yellow rice, which offers a soothing contrast to spicy dishes. The server may warn you away from the Jamaican-style dumplings and for good reason; dense and chewy dough balls, they’re definitely an acquired taste. The starchy plantains have a drier, chewier texture than some restaurants, but prove passable. The fresh Jamaican Coco Bread (99 cents) proves a disappointingly plain side item. I’ve yet to try the Rasta Pasta salad, but I like the name.
I’ve heard from friends who work downtown that meals at Calypso can drag out longer than expected, with “Can I make that a to-go order?” a common request. Perhaps the friendly servers mean to make up for the generic interior with their authentic, island attitude toward punctuality.