Cheap Eats - Gelato fix

Paolo della Zorza is a real character. His colorful personality is one of the main reasons his Virginia-Highland gelateria remains one of the most popular in the city despite the competition from similar establishments doling out the high-priced cold and creamy stuff.

It’s also the reason why Paolo recently dropped the friendly sounding “Aromi” name and took up his own moniker. Now della Zorza’s face is everywhere. It’s not the most appetizing thing to see on signs and in store windows. But it must be working, because Paolo’s — with its intense greens, yellows and reds beneath garish lighting — still attracts those seeking to satiate their sweet tooth.

What we ate: The lightly grilled paninis have disappeared from the menu. Paolo explains that they just weren’t selling, so don’t look for lunch anymore. The crepes are still there and, according to the owner, are what helped get him through another long winter. The choco banana ($4.67) is a warm crepe with fresh bananas, chocolate sauce and whipped cream. Or try the citron ($4.67), with lemon sorbet and strawberries.

But most people seek out the gelato, despite the confusion over how authentic it really is. This Italian ice cream is much denser than its American counterpart, since it doesn’t contain as much air. Paolo’s is thick and not as smooth as normal, but it is made with low-fat milk, contains less fat and is lower in calories than traditional ice cream. Paolo’s doesn’t offer all the flavors I look for, but the dulce de lece, pistachio and tiramisu are sure bets; the green apple, blackberry and raspberry are even more satisfying. New flavors show up constantly; one recent fresh addition, rose, didn’t taste like much of anything — and I’ll leave the carnation to the bees. You’ll pay four bucks (after tax) for a small, but you can get it in a flavored cone.

Service: For now, Paolo is holding down the fort solo. So it might take awhile to get your scoops and free samples. Hopefully he’ll hire some help as the weather warms up.

Eye candy: Probably the most fun about Paolo’s is the schizo decor — think Tokyo tech meets Italian comfort. The back-lit picture menu and plastic food displays create a riot of color and texture that pushes you out the door faster than you can say straciatella.

Real candy: Canolis filled with gelato and marzipan mice add to the jovial air of the place. Check out the imported chocolates, or try a gelato shake or float.??