Cheap Eats - Too cool to be square

Solid center at the core of Radial

Time it just right or you’ll be waiting awhile for brunch at Radial Cafe. The funky Candler Park diner is a favorite for breakfast-goers in the same vein as its nearby neighbor, the Flying Biscuit. Unfortunately there’s not much to hold your attention while waiting. Located in a mixed-use complex along DeKalb Avenue, Radial doesn’t have the bakery and shops found along McLendon to ease tensions while you twiddle your thumbs.The space is bright, airy and cool with a smattering of sculpture and art. But that doesn’t keep your tummy from grumbling for long.

What we ate: The pancakes — original or buckwheat variety — are a good standby. Light and fluffy, a stack of the original ($4.50) comes with a side of bacon, sausage, vegetarian sausage or fruit. The buckwheat pancakes are superior. Although one friend frowned at their gray color, she ended up enjoying them anyway. If the homefried potatoes don’t come with your meal, order them a la carte (99 cents). They’re a perennial favorite (though a bit greasy at times). Burrito de huevos ($6.99) are part of the “breakfast all day menu” and, in fact, prove to be a hearty lunch entree. The eggs are scrambled with basil and red peppers, and are wrapped in a flour tortilla with a heavy dose of cheese and then topped with a hefty smothering of spicy black beans and chipotle salsa.

Although most seem to sample Radial for breakfast, lunch shouldn’t pass notice. Most selections are uninspired standards like the tuna melt ($5.99) and club ($6.50), but there are interesting derivations like the leek burger ($6.99), a ground beef patty with chopped leeks, garlic and jalapenos. The burger wasn’t all that spicy, but it was still a great rendition of their classic burger ($6.50). A grilled cheese special ($5.75) should be on the permanent menu. Served with a hearty portion of vegetable soup, the thick slabs of grilled bread were gushing with melted American, cheddar, provolone and Swiss cheeses.

Service: I kept going back, hoping that whatever was going on in the kitchen wasn’t a true problem. But it seems no matter what time of day or what is ordered — sandwich, grits or even soup — it takes the kitchen an inordinate amount of time to turn the order around. The hipster servers consistently appear unconcerned about the lag time.

Cheapest item: You can buy an individual pancake at Radial for just $1.25.

Most expensive item: Unless you choose a special, the most expensive sandwich going is the basil shrimp salad ($7.50). The shrimp are sauteed in garlic, mixed with mayo, basil leaves and red bell peppers, and served on a warm croissant.??