Cheap Eats - Saddle up
Twisted Taco cashes in on tortillas
Twisted Taco is half-taqueria, half- burrito joint, half-bar — so many halves that it adds up to a whole lot. This converted house is nestled amid the glitzy Crescent Avenue district of Midtown destination spots — across the street from Tangier and nearby Nomenclature. The restaurant is owned by the people who brought you Cherry and the Leopard Lounge. But it spurns the high gloss those eateries strive for.
Holy hide: The gutted, refurbished two-story house is outfitted with all sorts of rustic gear, including hanging boars’ heads, a full-size longhorn steer’s head (mounted over the downstairs bar) and bar stools covered in what appears to be cow hide. With its John Wayne posters and other reproductions of period artifacts, the theme of the restaurant hints at a Western movie set. Balcony seating is more pleasant than most, with views of the skyline peeking through towering trees.
Where’s Rooster?: Entree names pick up on the Western theme. The Shane is a pulled-pork barbecue quesadilla with jack cheese, pineapple and onion ($6.50), and there’s a veggie burrito called Dances With Wolves ($6.25). One friend asked, “Where’s the Rooster Cogburn?” before contenting himself with a trio of soft tacos ($1.95 each). The Treasure of Sierra Madre is fried chicken, jalapeno mayo, lettuce and salsa; the Alamo boasts spicy fried tilapia, jack cheese, jalapeno mayo and slaw; and the Virginian makes genteel with barbecued pulled pork, cheese and salsa.
Nacho mama: We tried the Cowboys ($4.50), but weren’t too impressed. This starter of seasoned onion rings served with barbecue and blue cheese dipping sauces was a little too heavy to start a meal. Most people start with nachos — but here you have seven choices and could easily make a whole meal of them. The classic Mexican ($6.95) includes ground beef and cheese sauce. The Good the Bad and the Ugly ($7.50) goes whole hog — fajita nachos with sauteed onions, mozzarella cheese, sour cream, salsa, and a choice of chicken, steak or shrimp.
Casting call: If you’re looking for something a little lighter, the High Noon ($7.25) is a Mediterranean quesadilla filled with feta and jack cheese, red onion, Roma tomatoes, black olives and shrimp. The Blazing Saddle ($6.25/$6.75) doesn’t come with sound effects, but it does come loaded with black beans, corn salsa, and a choice of chicken or steak and cheese. As for burritos, the Billy Jack ($5.95) includes ground chorizo sausage with a choice of black or pinto, sauteed onions, cheese and salsa.
Twisted sippin’: Drink specials include a frozen mango margarita ($4) as well as the standard twisted margarita ($4) on the rocks.