Cheap Eats - Cross-eyed lover

Gato Bizco for breakfast, lunch and dinner

The Sunday brunch queue along McLendon Avenue has been a common sight for years in Candler Park. Warm or cold, dozens of people wait hours to get into the Flying Biscuit. But breakfasters also line up these days outside the Biscuit’s neighbor, the lovable Gato Bizco diner.

The space has changed owners, names and styles several times over the years. Most recently it saw the fabulous Mexican-inspired creations of Mike Geier during its evening incarnation as Gato de Noche (night cat). Noche is no more and Gato Bizco (cross-eyed cat) has expanded its breakfast and lunch menu to offer dinner options Wednesday through Saturday. But it’s still the breakfast crowds that pack the space most days.

Diner days: Despite having limited seating, the space is bright and airy. Sit at one of the bar stools and watch as the line cook serves up sauteed tofu and peppers. Or take your place at one of the handful of booths. If you have more than four in your group, don’t mind elbows in your grits. If you hit it just right, you won’t have a problem finding a seat. The owner (who most days is taking orders) keeps you feeling like family.

Eggs & taters & cakes: Breakfast is served all day. That means eggs served scrambled or fried, on a plate, on a biscuit or as a sandwich on toast (get the rye). Eggs ($2.75 for one/ $3.75 for two) cooked to your liking come with a creamy bowl of grits. Or, sub tangy skillet “taters” for the grits for an extra 75 cents.

I was most taken with the stack of sweet potato pancakes ($4.95). The large, brown medallions are an unexpected highlight to the menu and are so sweetly perfect that syrup was unnecessary. But, if you just can’t pass up the extras, add blueberries, pecans or chocolate chips to the stack for an extra 50 cents.

On the grill: If you leave the breakfast page you’ll have to wade through the rest of the confusing menu. The brightly illustrated pages are difficult to read and include everything from burgers and burritos to quesadillas and tacos. A list of sandwiches includes mostly variations on the classic grilled cheese. The Cheese Louise ($3.95) is a basic gooey cheddar between thick slices of Texas Toast.

The Franklin ($4.95) attracted my attention with its sauteed spinach, tomato and fresh basil. A heap of spinach was a bit overwhelming, but the basil balanced out the flavors. Sandwiches are served with a bag of Zapp’s potato chips, but I subbed a bowl of the garlic mashed potatoes with Burgundy mushroom gravy ($1.75).

The Memphis Melt ($5.25), grilled turkey slices and Swiss on rye, garners no complaints, but no praise either. But the patty melt — a mix between a burger and a Reuben topped with grilled onions, Swiss and Russian dressing on rye — is a juicy good time.

jerry.portwood@creativeloafing.com