Cheap Eats - Eat like a king

Doraville. The name probably doesn’t mean much to intowners. To gluttons like myself who have Atlanta and surrounding areas mapped out according to where you can eat in what area, the Chamblee/Doraville ‘hood is known simply as “Buford Highway.” But in addition to being an independent city in its own right, Doraville is home to astronaut John Casper (as the “Welcome to Doraville” sign indicates). A king of sorts also resides here - a taco king.

My kind of royalty: Located next to a strip mall whose businesses are alternately Korean and Latino, El Rey del Taco is large, clean, airy and bright. Painted shades of sky blue and yellow, the interior is reminiscent of a chiringuito (a casual, open-air beachfront eatery). A vending machine in the corner of the main dining room dispenses press-on, black-ink prison tattoos featuring rampaging pit bulls. The atmosphere is festive and spirited, as is the restaurant’s service.

Mini tacos, maxi-feast: Although I’d certainly return for a go at the higher-priced items, such as the seafood cocktails and fried fish combos, the best way to jump in at El Rey del Taco is to order a pile of two-bite mini-tacos. The corn tortillas are pressed and cooked to order behind the counter and priced around $1 each. An al pastor mini taco ($1) features a thatched mound of hot, savory, succulent pork with wonderfully browned edges. Cabeza mini-tacos ($1) might sound scary, but there’s no head cheese involved. It’s really beef cheek, earthy with poblano chiles and intensely tender.

Getting my goat: Barbecued goat mini-tacos ($1.10) are surprisingly delicious, with just a hint of gaminess in the saucy roasted meat. Full-size fish tacos ($3.25) are chock-a-block with buttery, flaky chunks of grilled tilapia and ripe avocado. Quesadillas are enormous and can be ordered plain or stuffed to bursting with your choice of meat. The one we try with carnitas ($3.50) doesn’t play around — it’s filled with a heaping helping of delicious, shredded barbecued pork.

Appreciation incluido: A 12 percent tip is included in your bill, but with service as fast, obliging and quick with a smile, you should feel free to pay your respects to taco royalty and pass along a bit more gold.cynthia.wong@creativeloafing.com