Cheap Eats - Good things in store
Fast snacks wrapped and stacked at Carniceria Hispana
Carniceria Hispaña #1, part of a four-outlet, locally owned chain, is a foodie’s joy that boasts an astounding variety of all things edible and Latino. A small produce stand is laden with two treats you rarely see in Atlanta-area markets: soft-to-the-touch avocados ready for mashing, and utterly ripe, black-skinned plantains. A clean, well-stocked meat counter in the back faces end caps loaded with every dried chili imaginable. Just around the corner from the chops, ribs and flank steak resides the best part of Carniceria Hispaña: its small, always bustling eatery.
(Too) hot tamale: You can take your goodies out or sit at a cluster of tables jumbled between the cashier and the Western Union booth in the front corner of the shop. A board behind the counter offers three main items: tortas (Mexican sandwiches) and tacos six ways, and tamales. Menu items are written only in Spanish and one gets the sense that communication rarely occurs in English, but service is friendly and obliging. Diners familiar with Mexican preparations (carnitas, barbacoa, al pastor) will have no problem ordering. Tamales ($1) are a disappointment, reheated in a plastic bag that melts around them. The ends are dried out to the point of crispiness, too dense and bland.
Taco yell: Carniceria Hispaa #1 whips out tacos at warp speed. Carnitas tacos ($1.99) are loaded with velvety pork, a little saucier than I’d like, due to storage in a steam table, but a pleasure to eat nonetheless. Barbacoa tacos ($1.99) are similarly a bit wet — I’d like some charred edges — yet outstandingly tender and intensely beefy. Accompanying salsas are impeccably fresh, sparkling with lime and brilliant with cilantro.
Torta reform: The real stars of the show are the tortas ($4.29), of which the milanesa (pounded, breaded and fried steak) is well worth a visit on its own. It takes considerable squishing to compact the sandwich enough so you can take a bite. Piled with jalapeos, tomatoes, lettuce, buttery avocado and a generous slick of mayonnaise, the torta is sloppy in all the right ways. Chomp down on the tender, crisply breaded steak and a slice of avocado goes shooting out the other side of the downy, griddled bun. A taste of crisp iceberg is checked by pungent, fiery jalapeo slices, and the tomatoes steadily drip their summery juices until you down the last mouthful. There’s certainly better Mexican food to be had, but as both a dining and shopping experience, Carniceria Hispaa is odd, speedy fun.