Cheap Eats - Pub-style pleasures

Lately, I’ve been going to College Park a lot, and every time I visit the neighborhood, I like it even more. At first, when you exit I-85 on Virginia Avenue, you might feel wary. But once you pass the dilapidated fast-food joints and low-rent motels, you round the bend into a bygone era. I love the stately old homes and quaint shops that make up the downtown strip. Manchester Arms, a British-style pub, is housed in a small brick cottage right on Virginia Avenue.

SNUG AS A BUG: The owners of Manchester Arms did a stellar job with its renovation. I’m a fan of English pubs, and this one is as cozy and welcoming as they come. Downstairs, there’s a bar and a small dining area. There’s another dining room upstairs, but you must maneuver a steep flight of stairs to get there. The upstairs room is a snug little loft that overlooks the downstairs area. I felt for our server as he hoofed it up and down that staircase all night, though. After just one beer, I felt a little unsteady making my way downstairs to the ladies’ room.

COMFORT FOOD: Nothing suits me better than a steaming bowl of shepherd’s pie on a wintry night, and Manchester Arms’ shepherd’s pie ($8.75) hit the spot. A ground beef stew studded with bits of carrot and onion and topped with heaps of silky mashed potatoes, this dish could warm the chilliest soul. We ordered a side of Yorkshire pudding ($4.50) for kicks. I’ve never understood why it’s called “pudding,” when in fact it’s more like a savory popover — puffed up and golden on the outside and hollow on the inside. At any rate, the crispy creations were gone before my shepherd’s pie arrived. They would have been lovely dunked in its juices. Fish and chips ($11) were another standout, the silky white fish encased in a crunchy beer batter.

SMOTHERED AND COVERED: The smothered chicken sandwich ($8.50) was a messy endeavor but worth the extra napkins: A grilled chicken breast is diced up in chunks and draped in melted cheese and sweet grilled onions. On request, the kitchen prepares the juicy Angus burger ($8) in a smothered style, although it’s not offered that way on the menu.

Manchester Arms is cozy and convivial on a frosty winter night. But I’m looking forward to a return visit in warmer weather — there’s a small but charming patio that looks perfect for lazing around on a balmy summer night. I’m glad I’ve got a reason to go back.