Cheap Eats - Don’t mess with Texas

Fox Bros. BBQ at Smith’s Olde Bar

There are plenty of reasons to hang out at Smith’s Olde Bar: good bands, a mellow crowd and friendly bartenders. Now you can add another feature to the list: the best barbecue in town. In the past, I was never bowled over by Smith’s menu — it was serviceable, but pretty bare-bones. But since Smith’s struck a deal with a couple of brothers from Texas, I’m singing a different tune. Fox Bros. BBQ smokes a mean pork butt, plus beef brisket and some of the most delectable dry-rubbed ribs I’ve ever tasted. Also, Fox Bros. offers catering. (I’m already thinking up an excuse to throw a party.) Since Fox Bros. BBQ doesn’t have its own restaurant, Smith’s is just about the only place in town to taste the brothers’ handiwork.

Lone-Star Style: I’m a Georgia girl, so I’ve always considered beef barbecue a little alien, but the beef brisket plate ($9.95) won me over. Strips of beef were fork-tender, with a pink center and charred black on the outside. A liberal basting of peppery barbecue sauce gave the brisket a spicy kick. Native Texans longing for a taste of home won’t be disappointed.

Hog Heaven: My husband is a barbecue fanatic who can’t go longer than a couple of weeks without his Daddy D’z fix. After sampling the Fox Bros.’ ribs, he declared them the best he’s ever tasted. It’s the dry rub that works magic. The ribs ($9.95 half-rack, $17.95 full rack) have the same peppery kick as the brisket, but it’s mellowed by a smoky sweetness. That same sweetness also comes through in the pulled pork ($9.95 a plate). Charred hunks of pork shred easily, with crispy bits clinging to the edges.

Side Interests: The mayonnaise-based coleslaw was a little soupy for my taste, but it provided a cooling counterpoint to the spicy barbecue. By contrast, the macaroni and cheese was perfect — not too sticky, with gooey cheese clinging to fat pasta shells. A basket of crunchy onion rings, just greasy enough to make them totally irresistible, didn’t last long on our table.

Smith’s serves the pulled pork sandwiches every day, but the rest of the goods are only available on Wednesday nights, Saturdays and Sundays. (Note: Wednesday nights are known as “Widespread Wednesdays” — you can groove on Widespread Panic while you nosh.) I’d suggest wearing loose pants if you go. This is one of those meals where you keep eating long past the point of fullness. “Just one more bite,” you’ll say. Go ahead, try to show some restraint. Maybe you’ll have more luck than I did, but I doubt it.