Cheap Eats - Gluttony is a virtue

Cafe 458

“I think this is a first,” I whispered to my husband, standing in Cafe 458’s entryway. “There’s no wait!” I felt like I’d hit the jackpot. Who’s ever heard of brunch in this town without a wait? As the hostess led us down a hallway to the dining room, she explained how Cafe 458 works. Everyone employed there — servers, hostesses, even the chef — is a volunteer. The restaurant is only open to the public on the weekends, for brunch, and the rest of the week it serves free meals as part of Samaritan House, an organization devoted to helping the homeless get their lives back on track. The meals are just part of it; Samaritan House also offers mental health services, drug treatment and job counseling for men and women ready to take control of their lives. All the proceeds from brunch, including tips, go toward supporting Samaritan House. Pancakes with a side of virtue? Sounds good to me.

Worthy Waits: Though undeniably utilitarian, the space is far more cheerful than one might expect. A breakfast counter fronts an open kitchen, with colorful pendant lights dangling above it. The cook slides plates of eggs and French toast across the countertop, where servers add finishing touches before whisking them to the table. My husband, ever the grumpy Gus, scowled when our server forgot our drinks at first, but the fact is, no one’s getting paid here. If the service is a tad shaky, cut the volunteers some slack. They’re busting their asses for a good cause while the rest of us are sitting on ours, sipping from a mug filled with coffee (it’s excellent, by the way, supplied by Javaology next door).

Though the place is bustling, it doesn’t have quite the frenetic, caffeine-fueled vibe you notice at Thumbs Up or Flying Biscuit. Maybe it’s the shock of not having to wait for a table; whatever the reason, the crowd just seems a little more relaxed.

Barbecue for Breakfast: Carolina pulled pork Benedict may bring barbecue fiends to tears, it’s such a delight. Fluffy poached eggs perch on halved biscuits, with twin mounds of pulled pork and stewed greens in the middle. The whole thing is drizzled with a Dijon hollandaise. It’s a perfect match of high- and low-brow. A side of savory parmesan grits on the side, and you probably won’t need to eat again for the rest of the day.

Sugar Rush: I wasn’t prepared for the French toast, though I probably should have been. Here’s what it’s called on the menu: butterscotch white chocolate chip bread pudding French toast. I’m quite certain this is the first time I’ve had anything this decadent before 11 a.m. Dense slices of bread, studded with nuts and white chocolate chips, had been soaked in egg and griddled before being squirted liberally with chocolate sauce and butterscotch. I have a sweet tooth the size of Wyoming, and I only managed to finish one piece.

Hangover Rx: An egg sandwich is one of my favorite hangover foods, and Cafe 458’s is exemplary, topped with crisp bacon, lettuce and a fat slice of ripe tomato. Waffle House-style hash browns get the deluxe treatment when fried up with a heap of fresh vegetables. This isn’t a side dish — it takes up a full plate, and will well satisfy the hungry herbivore in your group. A slice of velvety asparagus and tomato quiche comes with a biscuit and your choice of meat.

I generally feel like a guilty glutton as I stagger to the car after a giant brunch like this one. But knowing that all the proceeds go to a worthy cause like Samaritan House eases the pangs just a little bit. If that doesn’t work for you, a couple of Tums should do the trick.