Cheap Eats - Fountain of youth

The Old Tucker Fountain more than just an eatery

When alcohol went underground, the pharmacy soda fountain replaced bars as a communal counter to visit and sit and sip legal concoctions. Pharmacy fountains were the local corner stop for a snack, and a place to grab medicine for the body and soul until most suddenly went out of business.

Reluctant renaissance: One such drugstore cafe, located on Main Street in Tucker’s town square, had lost its pharmacist, ironically named Dr. Fountain, to retirement. This encouraged Tucker native Mike Holcomb to reluctantly purchase the store, which he recently reopened.

“I never wanted a restaurant business, ever,” the renaissance silk screener, music manager and cultural coordinator said. “But I couldn’t let this piece of history go.”

So Holcomb and chef Kathryn Dunaway developed a menu appealing to business folk and day-camp kids alike. They added nostalgic artifacts – a jukebox, some retro kitsch – and extra seating to the still intact fountain and counter.

Juke joint: While listening to tunes from the ’50s to the ’80s, grab a Stewart’s Strawberries N’ Cream soda, and order up some grub from the simple but surprisingly comprehensive menu. The offerings combine classic comfort cuisine with contemporary ingredients. The chop chop chicken sandwich features chicken with a sweet teriyaki sauce that is complimented with scattered scallions. Homemade pimento cheese and egg-salad sandwiches will remind you of mom’s, although the fountain’s version might just be better. The mighty meatloaf sandwich features a moist, generous hunk of meatloaf slathered with mayonnaise on old-fashioned white bread. And the barbecue pork is true slow-cooked and hand-pulled ‘cue. Lunch boxes, from $4.50-$5.75, include pickles and a side item like homemade veggie pasta salad, slaw or the especially interesting baked black beans. Light salads are also available. Greenwood Ice Cream is featured as well as Moonpies, various candies and more.

From boiled peanuts to bluegrass: Holcomb is anxious to develop the Old Tucker Fountain into much more than an eatery. He’s currently hosting extensive cultural events and has future plans for even more to be held there. Every Saturday morning the fountain features a children’s story hour where University of Georgia theater graduates not only tell the tales but also teach the kids how to build props and help them develop their own dramatic presentations. Toward the end of July, Holcomb will start a weekly bluegrass and business networking night where a bluegrass artist will be featured, and anyone is welcome to bring their instruments and join along.

Those with ideas for other community or private events can rent the fountain. It’s already been a popular venue for those wishing to celebrate rehearsal dinners, family reunions and children’s tea parties. Just the thing to make Main Street Tucker’s main drag once again.