Mouthful - Chinese

Canton CooksOften considered the best Cantonese restaurant in the city - if you order well. Hone in on specialties off the menu like the snow pea leaves, and salt and pepper pork. 5984 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. 404-252-0322.

China DelightWhile the city lingers in a dim sum lull (some of the finest specialists have closed or are renovating), the masses have discovered this rococo spot nestled on its own hill right off Buford Highway. Siu mai (pork dumplings in a wrinkly wrapper) are particularly fresh and gutsy. The treat here is the freshly made tofu - you'll see it carted around the room in a bucket - sweetened with a sugar syrup laced with ginger. 2390 Chamblee-Tucker Road. 770-986-0898.

Frank Ma'sThere's much to love about Frank Ma's, from the disco get-down interior to the brisk, efficient service that warms up to you with each visit. Yet the best thing is the seemingly endless, tantalizing menu. From coiled onion pancakes and Shanghai rice cake with pork to custardy sea bass and slowly braised Chinese "bacon," the regional gems make this one of the best restaurants for an affordable feast in Atlanta. 5389-A New Peachtree Road, Chamblee. 770-309-8083.

Hong Kong BBQ Those who favor Chinese restaurants cleaned up and pretty should go ahead and strike Hong Kong BBQ off their list. Located in the food court of the Chinatown Mall in Chamblee (which resembles the hawker centers of Hong Kong and Singapore), the tiny fast-food stand is all business, no frills. Butter-tender barbecued duck has crisp, tawny skin glistening with soy and honey. 5385 New Peachtree Road, Chamblee. 770-451-7277.??

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