Mouthful - Chicken livers

Three restaurants prove this delicacy's versatility

Holeman & Finch Public House: In keeping with its focus on hearty "nose to tail" cooking, this bustling gastropub makes one hell of a chicken liver pate. Though French-inspired, touches such as the layer of grassy apple-cider sorghum jelly and pickled green tomatoes make the pate feel down-home but no less refined. Toasted slices of H&F Bread Co. semolina bread soaked in rich Plugra butter only add to the decadence. 2277 Peachtree Road, Suite B. 404-948-1175. www.holeman-finch.com.

Shaun's: The "East Village-style chopped liver" is chef Shaun Doty's tribute to his favorite Manhattan haunts. Amish chicken livers are dusted with flour, sautéed in olive oil until crisp and chilled. The chef mixes them with homemade mayonnaise, parsley, chives and other ingredients but omits the onions for a milder flavor. Each order is finished with a sprinkling of microsprouts and grilled rye bread from Alon's Bakery. 1029 Edgewood Ave. 404-577-4358. www.shaunsrestaurant.com.

The Colonnade: This Atlanta institution has been serving Southern specialties for more than 80 years to a diverse and loyal clientele. The fried chicken livers have a crunchy, well-seasoned coating — akin to the equally delicious fried chicken — that are even better with a sprinkle of tangy hot sauce. The livers are available as an appetizer or an entree and you can even get them broiled if you're watching your diet. 1879 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-874-5642.

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