Feedbag - Secret Sauce

When it comes to good restaurants, Midtown’s got an embarrassment of riches. You can’t walk a block these days without encountering temptation in the form of MF Sushi, Nan Thai or Pasta da Pulcinella. We intowners can congratulate ourselves for having such sophisticated tastes.

So. What to make of the Old Spaghetti Factory? There it brazenly sits on Ponce like a scarlet letter, reminding us that this is Atlanta, not New York. The Spaghetti Factory mocks us. “You think you’re so urbane? Deep down you’re all suburbanites! Drop the act and dig into a platter of limp spaghetti and meatballs!”

I shouldn’t be so harsh. But I have wondered for ages what the allure was. I could understand if it were in Roswell or Marietta. But how does the place manage to stay in business in Midtown?

After a visit on a recent Saturday night, I can say with certainty that it’s not the food. Salad from a bag, overcooked spaghetti noodles drenched in pallid meat sauce, under-seasoned Alfredo sauce over chewy spinach tortellini, artery-clogging garlic cheese bread practically dripping butter and oil. Actually, the bread was pretty good. But everything else was second-rate at best. Lasagna was good in the way that Stouffer’s is good - squishy, gooey, cheesy and totally over the top.

The place was packed to the rafters, though. After a brief wait for a table, we were ushered through the baroque red-and-gold foyer to a table inside a pretend railway car. I should mention that the theme, at least at the Atlanta location, seems to be 19th-century train stations. It’s an experience - I’ll give it that. The bar and waiting area are swathed in red fabric and decked with huge chandeliers and those vaguely trashy-looking lamps that have fringe hanging from them. The dining room was huge, with barrel ceilings and faux-brick wallpaper.

Looking around, I began to think there’s a whole other Midtown population that I wasn’t aware of. It’s not all gay power couples and hot thirtysomethings in $300 jeans. Everyone looked as if they belonged in the ‘burbs. Families with annoyed-looking teenage kids, big tables celebrating birthdays, prom-goers in ill-fitting dresses and rented tuxes. I’d guess that some of them had journeyed inside the Perimeter to see a show at the Fox. The rest ... well, maybe they’re transplants just looking for something familiar. That’s understandable. The Spaghetti Factory may not be for me, but I’m glad to know that in Midtown, there’s a restaurant for everyone.

floreNCE.byrd@creativeloafing.comThe following restaurants around town are planning something special for Mother’s Day, May 8:

103 West will offer a buffet from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. featuring carved meats, seafood, salads and desserts. Cost is $59 for adults, $24.50 kids under 12.

103 W. Paces Ferry Road. 404-233-5993. www.buckheadrestaurants.com.

Enjoy brunch with a view on Mother’s Day at special-occasion favorite Canoe. Brunch will be served from 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. with menu items ranging from $8-$16. 4199 Paces Ferry Road. 770-432-2663. www.canoeatl.com.

Moms can feast for free all day at Dantanna’s, the seafood/sports emporium next to Lenox Square in Buckhead. Lunch will be served beginning at 11 a.m.

3400 Around Lenox Drive. 404-760-8873. www.dantannas.com.

Fogo de Chao salutes moms with a special all-you-can-eat price of $35 at lunch. The traditional churrascaria menu will be available from 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

3101 Piedmont Road. 404-266-9988. www.fogodechao.com.

In addition to the regular menu, the Food Studio will offer a special three-course menu from noon-9 p.m. on Mother’s Day for $35 per person. A children’s menu will also be available.

887 W. Marietta St. 404-815-6677. www.thefoodstudio.com.

Restaurant Eugene will be open on Mother’s Day from 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Chef Linton Hopkins will prepare a special a la carte brunch menu highlighting seasonal ingredients.

2277 Peachtree Road. 404-355-0321. www.restauranteugene.com.

Wisteria in Inman Park will open for lunch at 12:30 p.m. Look for a selection of classic salads and Southern entrees. The restaurant will stay open until 8 p.m. for an early family dinner as well.

471 N. Highland Ave. 404-525-3363. www.wisteria-atlanta.com.

In honor of Mother’s Day, Woodfire Grill will offer an a la carte brunch menu from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. A special dinner honoring moms will also be offered from 5:30-9 p.m.

1782 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-347-9055. www.woodfiregrill.com.

Einstein’s will be serving its classic brunch menu from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Look for shrimp in puff pastry, cheddar cheese grits, sourdough French toast and of course, the Bloody Mary bar. Moms can register to win a $50 Einstein’s gift card.

1077 Juniper St. 404-876-7925. www.einsteinsatlanta.com.??