Feedbag - South by Southwest

Georgia Grille’s name may confuse, but the food brings contentment

If there’s a restaurant in town with a more deceptive name, I don’t know of it. A place called the Georgia Grille must serve Southern food, right? Nope, try again. Georgia Grille, discreetly tucked away in a commercial strip on Peachtree Street, specializes in Southwestern food. See, it’s named after the artist Georgia O’Keeffe. She lived and painted in the Southwest. Whatever. The point is, hunt this place down and eat there, because oddball name or not, Georgia Grille is something special.

First off, the place is adorable. Forget that it’s in a strip mall. With punched-tin cutouts of cowboys and cowgirls dancing on the walls and heavy Indian blankets hanging hither and yon, it really does capture the feel of the old Southwest. The place has a laid-back vibe. Service isn’t formal, but it’s extremely warm and accommodating. You get the feeling Georgia Grille has a lot of regulars. Can I be one? Please?

The Southwestern menu does have hints of the South sprinkled throughout, but they’re subtle. For instance, there’s shrimp and grits on the menu, but they’re a far cry from the Low-Country classic I’ve come to adore after years of visits to my in-laws’ place in Charleston. The grits are dense and cheesy, more custard-like than creamy. The shrimp perched on top have been rolled in spices and seared a fiery reddish-brown. A julienne of vinegary squash gives the dish a nice tang.

Jalapeno poppers are one of my guilty pleasures, a holdover from the summer I slung beers at the original Taco Mac in Virginia-Highland. Here, they’re aptly named “hot shots” - they’ll set your mouth on fire. Cornmeal-crusted jalapenos are stuffed with cream cheese and served on top of a mix of black beans and salsa. I’m not much for sour cream, but I found myself eating spoonfuls of it just to cool my mouth off. The margaritas are heavenly, but they don’t do much to soothe a scorched palate.

When I asked our amiable server for an entree recommendation, she asked, “Do you like spicy?” Well, I love spicy, but after the hot shots I was worried. Thankfully, the smoked chicken enchiladas had a gentle heat. On the side was a little taco shell filled with salad tossed in buttermilk ranch. Adorable and functional! The enchiladas, rolled in sour cream and green chile béchamel and topped with dollops of red and green salsa, were the best I’ve tasted in recent memory.

Against our better judgment, we ordered dessert. “I’ll just have a bite,” I promised. But then it arrived: Kahlua creme brûlée, all caramelized and crackly on top. Don’t tell anyone, but I ate the whole thing.

florence.byrd@creativeloafing.com

Get It While It’s Cheap

Joel has raised the price of its weekly prix fixe menu from $29 to $39. That’s still a terrific bargain, though. Choose from three appetizers, three entrees and three dessert selections - each varies daily. The menu is available for dinner Monday-Friday. 3290 Northside Parkway. 404-233-3500. www.joelrestaurant.com.

Springtime Table

A special dinner at Woodfire Grill on Mon., April 18, will feature two lovely spring ingredients, asparagus and morel mushrooms. Chef Michael Tuohy’s four-course prix-fixe dinner is $75 per person, including wine pairings (tax and gratuity extra). The regular menu will also be available. 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road. 404-347-9055. www.woodfiregrill.com.

Que Syrah, Syrah

On Tues., April 19, One Midtown Kitchen hosts the third installment of its Great 8 series of wine tastings. This one focuses on Syrah. Taste wines from all over the world, from France to Australia. $45 per person. 559 Dutch Valley Road. 404-892-4111. www.onemidtownkitchen.com.

That’s the Spirit

Atkins Park is conducting a vodka tasting featuring Stoli, Absolut, Grey Goose, Ketel One and Skyy on Thurs., April 21. A guest lecturer will be on hand to explain the nuances of each vodka. If your tolerance is low, not to worry - snacks will be provided. $25 per person. 794 N. Highland Ave. 404-876-7249. www.atkinspark.com.

Flights of Fancy

La Tavola Trattoria in Virginia-Highland hosts a Flight Night every Monday during dinner hours. Flight Night consists of three to five two-ounce tastes that allow guests to compare and contrast the wines featured each week. April focuses on wines from the Trentino-Alto Adige region, along with sparkling wines. April 18 features red wines, and April 25 is all about Prosecco and Asti sparkling wines. 992 Virginia Ave. 404-873-5430. www.latavolatrattoria.com.??






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