Chef’s Table - Suave Agave

At 52, Rafael Barragan, the bartender at Sala, may be a bit more ... seasoned than many of his profession. But with age comes experience - encyclopedic knowledge of the more than 60 tequilas he has poured since Sala opened two-and-a-half years ago. “Tequila is my forte. Even my accent works here,” says Barragan, who was born in Veracruz, Mexico, and previously worked the bar at Fontaine’s. FYI, young bucks: He’s also got a sinewy body that a man half his age would envy.

Creative Loafing: How many types of tequila are there?

Barragan: Blanco or silver is the purest tequila. There’s no aging, it goes straight from the distillery into the bottle. Blancos are hot, peppery with a note of honey at the end. In cantinas in Mexico, it’s a tradition to serve a shot of blanco with a chaser of sangrita, “a little bloody.” Reposada means “rested.” They are aged two months to a year in oak barrels and are smoother and softer and release more flavor. Anejos are aged for more than a year and are darker and sweeter.

What else don’t most of us know about tequila?

The best tequila is made from blue agave. There are 136 agave plants. Tequila is only made in Mexico and it can’t be called tequila if it’s not made in Mexico. There are five states in Mexico that produce tequila; Jalisco is the biggest. Tequila county is a lot like wine country. You can visit one distillery after another.

Why are so many margaritas lousy?

Many use pre-made mix. Our margaritas are purer than others because we make our own simple sugar. And we don’t use Grand Marnier unless someone requests it. We use Torres.

Does tequila really make people crazy?

I suggest sipping tequila, and not on any empty stomach; that’s too hard on your stomach. With our tequila flights we offer small bites.

Are most tequila drunks mean?

It’s a myth. Tequila is a very sociable drink. People get very talkative. If you’re a mean person, you get mean.

Do people really unburden themselves on bartenders?

I’ve been behind bars for 25 years. I’ve heard a lot of things.

chefstable@creativeloafing.com






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