Restaurant Review - El Molino

All right, I have become addicted to the taqueria inside El Molino (2000 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404-636-8714). I have written before about the enormous, over-stuffed tortas — sandwiches — there for lunch. They cost $3.50 and you get your choice of fillings, like carne al pastor or carne asada.

Recently, though, I have been paying better attention at the counter, where I have noticed that Carlos, the cook, always displays one or two dishes of food. Turns out they are specialties of the day. In 16 years of writing this column and complaining constantly about the predictable menus in even authentic Mexican restaurant, I have now found real variety.

Among the dishes I have sampled are the only chicharrones stewed in green sauce that I have ever seen offered publicly. (Lucero Martinez makes them for her kitchen staff at Zocalo.) I’ve also eaten little ribs stewed in a peppery sauce; chicken pieces simmered in a mild barbecue-like sauce; intense barbacoa; a spicy stew of chicken pieces and chilies; mysterious meatballs afloat in a mysterious broth and more. Much more.

These “platillos,” which are accompanied by rice, beans, tortillas and salad, cost $5 each. I’m guessing the huge portions are demanded by the clientele, mainly Mexican laborers. Hours are noon-5 p.m. daily. English is not spoken, really, but with enough pointing, you’ll be able to communicate decently, if not receive an elaborate description of a dish.