Restaurant Review - Roy's

2001: A Spice Odyssey: Roy's

Based on Roy Yamaguchi's spectacularly successful Pacific-fusion formula perfected in a Honolulu suburb, this high-concept Buckhead beachhead (slickly packaged by Outback Steakhouse) manages to look and sound very Hawaiian. Culinarily, the intention seems not so much to reproduce Yamaguchi's highly personal cuisine as to mass-market it — like Wolfgang Puck frozen pizzas. At its occasional best, the kitchen produces workmanlike dishes such as coconut-crusted tiger shrimp with kaffir lime-scented cocktail sauce. Formularized sauces, in fact, are often better than the fish and meats they theoretically support. With its Kohala decor, upbeat aloha service and fancy drinks, Roy's can still be amusing, despite the dumbed-down luau cooking and jacked-up prices.