Food Issue - Around the world: New York

There’s a list of 16 commandments worth acquainting yourself with on the front of the menu at BB’s Bagels and Diner. Some might find these commandments a bit off-putting, but most of the rules are simply there to make the staff’s job easier. Case in point: “One Shall Not Be an Idiot. We believe that the customer is always right, well maybe not ALL THE TIME. We can be jerks but nice jerks. But if we experience a REAL jerk, then turn around and don’t let the door hit you on the way out.” If you haven’t guessed, BB’s is big on attitude — real New York attitude in particular.

But don’t be dissuaded by those who say the service is too rushed and aggressive. You aren’t in Alpharetta anymore: The minute you walk through the doors of the freestanding restaurant with an interior that looks strangely like a subway car, you’re in New York City. This is the kind of place where the guy taking your order will call you “ma” in a sexy, thick New York accent; the kind of place where the guy repeating your simple bagel order to his staff will say “scallywag” instead of scallion cream cheese; the kind of place where a burger called “the Fat Bastard” arrives with a steak knife plunged through its center lest it fall apart from its own heft; the kind of place where you can get an amazing New York-style bagel without compromising any chew, flavor or size; and the kind of place where New York transplants go to feel at home and talk trash about whatever sports teams are playing at the moment while indulging in a delightfully greasy Reuben sandwich made with chopped up pastrami BB’s imports from New York.

BB’s is the kind of place where people who aren’t from New York — but love the hell out of it anyway — go to eat and feel like a tough Yankee without the bitter winters and expensive rents.