Ethnic City - Ethnic.city: Fanoos Persian Cuisine

Fanoos Persian Cuisine in Sandy Springs is a deliciously festive affair

In honor of the Persian Empire’s 2,500th anniversary, a lavish event took place in the historic city of Persepolis in October 1971. Fifty fabric tents were placed around a central water fountain and a grand gala was held in the banquet hall. Figs, nuts, saffron, and lamb were simmered into special delicacies and served to 600 or so guests. The Shah and Shahbanu entertained royals from around the world.

Atlantans can travel through time and space to a sort of standing re-creation of the Tent City celebration in Persepolis, Iran, right here in our suburbs.

Fanoos Persian Cuisine opened its doors in 2008 and stands prominently amid a row of Middle Eastern restaurants, rug makers, and jewelers on Roswell Road in Sandy Springs. Fanoos, which translates to “lantern” in Farsi, is much more than a restaurant. Over the years it has become a gathering place, a sort of Persian party house, where people from all cultures enjoy good food and international music.

Fanoos’ festive vibe starts with the décor. Sheer drapes hung from the ceiling give the space an airy, elegant feel. The tiled walls are adorned with classical paintings in ornate frames. In place of booths, raised platforms covered with vibrant Persian rugs provide floor-level seating around long, low-level tables. For those who prefer standard seating, there are plenty of wooden tables and chairs available, as well. Diners can watch through glass as a bread maker prepares fresh and crispy lavash (flatbread) with a tandoor oven in one corner of the room. The bread comes from the hot oven like pizza and arrives with a plate of fresh herbs, walnuts, radishes, feta cheese, and butter.

Owner Jalal Khadivi, a charismatic Iranian gentleman, is the host of this party. He spends most of his waking hours organizing weddings and private events, sipping tea with friends, and chatting with guests. Regular visitors are showered with comforting hugs and cheek-to-cheek kisses, occasional toasts, and complimentary desserts.

The menu is sectioned into hot and cold appetizers, kebabs, stews, and rice dishes. Most of the dishes are flavors that Khadivi ate growing up in Iran. The two regional dishes he serves from his hometown of Lahijan in northern Iran are mirza ghasemi ($6), a scrumptious minced eggplant, garlic and tomato dip flavored with turmeric; and panearborasta ($8), a pungent and salty crumbled feta cheese mixed with scrambled eggs and fresh dill. Another crowd pleaser is kashke bademjon ($6), a creamy paste made with fried eggplants, onions, garlic, and kashk (whey yogurt) eaten as a dip with lavash. Vegetarians love the light, paprika and turmeric spiced red lentil soup ($6), commonly served as a starter in many Middle Eastern countries; and ghormeh sabzi ($13-$17), a hearty spinach, kidney bean, and herb stew considered by some to be the Iranian national dish, can be ordered with beef or with vegetables only. The shirin polo ($6), fluffy basmati rice speckled with barberries, orange peels, sliced almonds, and pistachios, is a sweet and sour favorite.

Don’t leave without trying the kebabs. Koobideh ($14), ground beef mixed with onions, parsley, and served with lemony sumac, is flattened with a wooden mallet and grilled on a skewer. Generous hunks of grilled Cornish hen marinated in lemon juice and saffron are like a spicy, Persian version of Buffalo wings. Both grilled fish dishes, tilapia and salmon ($14-$18), are basted with an assortment of ground onions, saffron, salt, and pepper. The juicy lamb shank ($17) is marinated for hours, allowing the meat to fully tenderize.

Fanoos has a full-service bar that serves specialty cocktails and a small selection of wine and beer. But the live entertainment is what sets Fanoos apart. At dinner time a stage near the back of the restaurant comes alive. Khadivi keeps the lineup interesting with local jazz artists, Russian-themed music nights, salsa lessons, belly dancing, and even stand-up comedy.

“If I was having a party every day at my home, I wouldn’t bore my guests with the same music and entertainment,” Khadivi says.

At Fanoos, Khadivi makes you feel like you’re part of the celebration. With delicious food, a festive atmosphere, and live performances, Fanoos might be the only public place in Atlanta to get the complete Persian party experience.