Ethnic City - Ethnic.city: Nations Cafe

An authentic Nigerian experience in Sandy Springs

Nations Cafe chef/owner Okon James came to the United States from Nigeria in 1986 as a student but soon discovered that his passion was in food, not engineering. He studied at the Art Institute of Chicago and Gwinnett Technical College, and he worked his way up in the Atlanta restaurant scene for almost 20 years, before taking a leap of faith to open a Nigerian restaurant in. James learned to cook a variety of global cuisines after working at such Atlanta restaurants such as Pano’s and Paul’s, Nikolai’s Roof, and Trader Vic’s. He blended what he learned at those establishments with traditional West African dishes to shape Nations Cafe’s menu. At Nations, James creates innovative versions of traditional West African cuisine. These days, James is summoned to cater at many a major African event in metro Atlanta, from weddings and graduations to diplomatic dinners.

The air inside the Sandy Springs eatery smells strongly of spiced meat. Crowded tables of all shapes are covered often in red, white, and yellow tablecloths. Antelope-horn chandeliers dangle from a stark black ceiling, and long animal print curtains also nod to the restaurant’s African roots. The intimate dining room seats 40 to 50 or so.

Nations Cafe aims to provide an authentic Nigerian cultural experience. The dining room can seem chaotic at times, though meal times are never rushed and just about everything is made from scratch. (Seriously, make sure your schedule allows for plenty of time to dine when you visit.) Because African influences abound in the cuisines of the Caribbean and South America, familiar things like Jamaican jerk chicken ($6.99), Kenyan ugali (spongy bread), and Caribbean fried plantains (aka dodo) appear on the menu.

For an authentic Nigerian street food experience, try the West African suya ($2.99) appetizer. It’s grilled beef, coated with seasoning and ground peanuts, that’s like crunchy beef jerky on a stick. Grilled kebabs of spicy chicken gizzard ($2) and beef stomach have an oily, chewy texture similar to pork belly. Kpof kpof ($1), fried doughnut holes with hints of sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, recall funnel cakes at the state fare.

Thick soups and stews, heavy starches, and lots of meat are fundamental in Nigerian gastronomy. Tomato stew, made with fresh and pureed tomatoes, chili pepper, chicken bouillon, and thyme is a base ingredient for most Nigerian simmered meat dishes.

In general, proteins on the restaurant’s menu can be divided into two categories: adventurous (tripe, gizzard, snail, goat) and safe (chicken, fish, and beef). One section of entrees includes fried or grilled protein served with a generous portion of tomato-onion-chili sauce that also has a tart and spicy kick. Crispy fried tilapia ($15.99) fillets topped with sliced vegetables simmered in red chili make for a sinus-clearing favorite. Fufu, a kind of African bread, made here of pounded yam, wheat, oatmeal, cassava (amala), or tapioca (garri), is a popular side. The sticky doughlike ball is broken off with fingertips and dipped in soup or stew.

Even though the menu is meat-centric, there are vegetarian options, too. Moimoi, spongy mashed black-eyed pea cakes served as a side, will appeal to tofu lovers. Edikang ikong ($12.99), known as vegetarian soup despite its traditional seafood content, is a hearty pumpkin, spinach, and waterleaf-based puree blended with crayfish broth. It tastes like collard greens, and a vegetarian option is also available. Parboiled rice cooked in tomato paste imparts a tangy flavor and red color to jollof rice, a popular accompaniment.

To wash down the spice-rich dishes, there is Maltina ($4), nonalcoholic barley soda noted to be rich in calcium. Beverage-wise, Nations Cafe serves only bottled water (Nigerians typically do not drink tap water), bottled juices, soft drinks, and a small selection of beer and wine.

To make it easier for the novice diner, chef James created a Hot Cafe Specials section, essentially preset entrees with two sides for lunch ($5.99-$12.99) and dinner ($10.99-$15.99). If you you’re new to Nigerian food, this section is a good place to start. And if service takes longer than you’re used to or much of the menu seems to have run out, remember it’s all part of the authentic Nigerian cultural experience.