Omnivore - Hungarian salami and prosciutto come to Cabbagetown

When I was a kid, the small neighborhood market was a fixture. In my hometown of Bryn Athyn, Pa., there was Soneson's, where you could get a sandwich and buy produce and candy (then go upstairs to a bar where I played darts and drank soda, while my father drank beer with my aunts and uncles). During our summers at Cherry Grove Beach, S.C., there was Boulineau's, where I used to deposit my pool of fake vomit on the checkout counter. Mrs. Boulineau would pretend she was horrified, no matter how often I did it.

The closest thing I've seen to such places now is the relatively new Cabbagetown Market and Little's Grill (198 Carroll St., 404-221-9186). I say "relatively new" because the place was operated for 80 years by the same family. Now, it's under new ownership and has turned into a kind of gourmet convenience market. It's great that you can pop in here for organic produce or a single lightbulb (as someone did during my visit today), but the best feature is the grill. Today I had a sandwich of Hungarian salami on a baguette with radishes. There are other sandwiches, including burgers and Patak hot dogs, along with prosciutto.

The owners have created a wonderfully welcoming ambiance. I'll be writing about it in a few weeks in the paper, but you should check it out now. Warning: Hours are kind of irregular, so call ahead. Warning 2: The parking on Carroll Street is pretty much a nightmare, as I mentioned in an earlier post about Carroll Street Cafe. You may have to walk a block, but don't worry. You will find a space.

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