Omnivore - At last, a really great meal and a sci-fi hand dryer

I'm not gonna name names here, but I've eaten a lot of mediocre food in the last few weeks, so it was quite a pleasant surprise to check out Repast (620 N. Glen Iris Drive, 404-870-8707) this week. I had not dined there since its opening week about 16 months ago. Look for my full report in next week's paper.

The restaurant's married chef-owners, Joe Truex and Mihoko Obunai, have lived and worked all over the world and their cuisine is a subtle fusion. For example, I had an appetizer special of foie gras with Indian accents, including diced cucumber lightly dressed with yogurt (an allusion to raita), mango puree and a sprinkling of fiery curry powder. The lemony cheesecake souffle (above) is probably my favorite dessert, although a green-tea tiramisu was a surprisingly cool innovation.

Besides the great food — including probably the best veal saltimbocca I've ever eaten in Atlanta — the restaurant has a congenial staff and the weirdest hand dryer I've ever encountered in a bathroom. I half-expected the thing to snap shut and amputate my hands.

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