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Omnivore - German chefs go molecular, fusion and organic

Remember how I remarked in a recent post about the Glenwood that there's no decent German food in our city? I've been to Germany a lot, so I've also wondered if there is any decent food in Germany itself.

Silly me. I had no idea Germany has become a majorly culinary center, where chefs are going molecular, fusion and organic. Says William Grimes in the New York Times:

Sitting side by side with France, Germany had long suffered from Minderwertigkeitsgefühl — an inferiority complex. Fine dining, by definition, was French, even when the chef was German, and the Michelin Guide called the shots, imposing French values wherever it went. A powerful local green movement, however, and the example of renegade chefs like Ferran Adrià, encouraged revolt. In the last decade, and more rapidly in the last five years, a new generation of German chefs has made neue Deutsche küche, or new German cuisine, an engine of culinary progress, particularly effective when allied, as it often is, with top-quality traditional ingredients from organic farms.

“It's kind of a small revolution, in minds and in cuisine,” says Otto Geisel, the president of Slow Food Germany and the owner of Zirbelstube at the Hotel Victoria in Bad Mergentheim, about 80 miles southeast of Frankfurt. “Everyone has seen what has happened in Spain, where chefs are using the best local products, and they have developed their own philosophy. The top chefs in Germany, until now, were a little afraid because of the Michelin Guide.”

Read the entire article here. Now, why hasn't anyone in our city made a go at updated German food?

(Photo from http://www.toytowngermany.com)





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