Omnivore - Yo quiero gourmet Mexican food
I ran into chef Eddie Hernandez at Taqueria del Sol (Cheshire Bridge) today and lamented that the restaurant's lunchtime specials seem to have recently taken a decided turn toward Tex-Mex. (This week is an exception.) He agreed, saying that efficiency and public tastes have mandated the change, although evening specials still remain more creative, in the vein of the defunct Sundown Cafe, the original full-service restaurant from which the taquerias were birthed.
Coincidentally, I recently ran into Lucero Martinez-Obregon at Zocalo Taqueria (Grant Park), which she owns with her brothers Marco and Luis. They closed their full-service Zocalo in Decatur recently, although the original 10th Street location remains open. I wondered if they too are headed toward a taqueria-only style.
"I would love it," Lucero replied.
I don't understand why creative Mexican food in the Diana Kennedy tradition doesn't do well in Atlanta. Yes, we have Rosa Mexicano, but it doesn't hold a candle to Oh...Maria!, the gourmet restaurant Lucero and her brothers opened in Buckhead almost 10 years ago. Between some kitchen problems and public tastes, the restaurant didn't last long.
Oh well. I guess business is booming at Taco Bell. Anyone got a favorite Mexican restaurant that does more than takes on taqueria-style food?