Omnivore - Birth of a dining critic
This is cool. When I was a teenager, I wrote a column for my school paper, but it wasn't about food. In fact, I don't think it ever crossed my mind to write a dining review. I don't even remember any discussion about the idea.
How things change. The following review of the new Peasant Bistro is by Arielle D'Avanzo, a member of the class of 2008 at Grady High School. She wrote the review for the school paper and graciously agreed to let us reprint it here:
Peasant Bistro, the newest culinary creation developed by Maureen Kalmanson and Pamela Fur, opened its doors on Feb. 28. Kalmanson, who along with Fur owns Mickâ€™s downtown and Pleasant Peasant, both on Peachtree Street, worked as a manager for the original Peasant Restaurants in its heyday and was inspired by the companyâ€™s philosophy.
â€œWhen I found out that Pleasant Peasant was on the market I knew thatâ€™s what I would do, so I bought it out,â€ said Kalmanson. â€œEveryone has a story about Peasant. It has a great sense of community about it. For it to change would destroy that.â€
The new restaurant, located in downtown Atlanta, features a variety of bistro-oriented dishes with Executive Chef Shane Devereux incorporating country French and Mediterranean influences into the seasonal dishes.
â€œWhat I really wanted to do with this restaurant was create a type of restaurant found in Lyon, one that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, duck pÃ¢tÃ©, roast pork, and is done really well,â€ Kalmanson said. â€œThis is exactly what Shane had been doing in Philadelphia and where he also wanted to go. He applied here to be our sous chef, and at the time I was going to hire an executive chef as well, but I decided not to do that because I wanted to see what he could do. It turns out that he has risen to the occasion and done a tremendous job.â€