Omnivore - Hurrah for tasty corn fungus!

Here’s a pleasant surprise. I checked out Cantina el Tesoro (129 Church St., 404-377-9797) in Decatur a few nights ago and had a great meal. One of the partners in the new venture operates Cantina la Casita in East Atlanta Village and Tesoro’s menu includes some of the same items.

But, generally, the food is more authentic, more sophisticated and a lot tastier. I sampled four tacos, including an especially delicious one made with brisket and another made with braised duck. We also ordered a plate of succulent carnitas (right).

I was most pleased to encounter queso fundido with tres hongos (mushrooms) and huitlacoche, the savory fungus that grows on corn and is sometimes referred to as “Mexico’s truffle.

The new restaurant is a large, rambling space that has been festively decorated. It’s also inexpensive. Look for more in next week’s “Grazing” column.






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