Omnivore - A sort-of-new taqueria

I spent the last week sampling mole, the Mexican sauce made with ground chiles, and found this sort-of-new taqueria, El Huachinago, at 3360 Buford Hwy.

It's actually Los Compadres with a new name and new management. The current manager told me (without further explanation) that Los Compadres had gotten a bad reputation and the owners decided to start over.

I couldn't find mole on the menu but when I asked for it with some chicken enchiladas, the manager told me he had found a woman who makes a delectable version. I agree. It was red, rather than the brown I found at Rosa Mexicano, Zocalo and Nuevo Laredo Cantina, and it had a nice fiery note that the others lacked. Not that I didn't like the others as much, but they all gravitated more toward the sweet.

El Huachinago, which means "red snapper," does not accept credit cards, so carry cash. You won't need much.

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