Omnivore - WaterHaven already humming

The new restaurant has taken the Globe's space

We visited WaterHaven, the new restaurant where the Globe used to be, Saturday night and had an excellent meal, including this sumptuous dish of oxtails with asparagus, turnips, carrots, fava beans and fluffy herb dumplings.

It was only the second day of the restaurant's operation and we weren't expecting the high quality of service and food we experienced. The Globe was one of my favorite restaurants for lunch, so I'm glad WaterHaven has turned out well, despite a name that sounds like it might belong to a cemetery.

The new tenant has warmed up the Globe's interior with olive-green paint but left most of the architectural features intact. The library is gone and is now a dining room. Executive Chef Chris Lee's menu is not very adventurous  but provides some great, surprising tastes here and there — like fenugreek and chimichurri in a shrimp starter.

Read more about WaterHaven in "Grazing" later this week.

(Photo by Cliff Bostock)