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Omnivore - Penne and porchetta

Try the penne with pickled peppers and hot sausage

In her review of La Pietra Cucina this week, Besha mentions Chef Bruce Logue's calamari-shaped penne.

Besha ate it with a classic pomodoro, but my friend Frank Miller and I sampled it (right) at lunch last Friday with troia, a spicy sausage the kitchen is now making. The dish included pickled peppers of several varieties that were cooked down until their sweetness was as powerful as their heat.

The effect was just as Besha described much of Logue's food: an almost confusing collision of flavors that somehow reconcile themselves in your own sweet mouth.

Above is a closeup of my favorite sandwich in the city these days — Pietra's porchetta panino.

(Sandwich photo by Cliff Bostock, pasta photo by Frank Miller)