Omnivore - In full bloom: Exploring bloomy rind cheeses

Cheese is basically three ingredients: Milk, salt and rennet. Milk, of course, is the main requirement. Salt brings out flavor and moisture while rennet separates the proteins from the whey. If that’s the case, how can there be so many different types of cheese?

Like wine, geographical location plays a major role in the flavor and type of cheese. Camembert and Brie come from largely populated areas, and the cheese makers were able to sell their cheeses at market on a weekly basis. Cheddar and Gruyère originated in rural areas where cheeses had to be able to withstand long aging periods and travel great distances to reach markets.

The introduction of mold causes the cheese to do different things. One type of mold used in cheese production is penicillium candidum. This is the mold that’s used on cheeses such as Brie, Camembert and Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill. The candidum is either introduced into the curds during production or sprayed on the exterior after the cheese has been shaped. In most artisan productions, the candidum is introduced during production.

After these cheeses have been shaped (usually in small 1-inch thick or so rounds) and given the optimum temperature and humidity, the candidum will begin to grow. In a few days the cheese will have a beautiful velvety or “bloomy” rind. At this point, the cheese is still fresh and the texture is still relatively firm and flaky. Think about that fresh goat cheese that comes in a log — that’s the texture of a fresh bloomy rind cheese. However, give the candidum a few weeks and that’ll change.