Omnivore - Pigging out at Edgewood Retail District

Visiting Morelli's, Five Guys and Figo


As every ice cream fan knows, Morelli's has opened a second location at the Edgewood Retail District on Moreland Ave. in the Little Five Points area. It's located in the old Coldstone Creamery space.

I'll have more to say about it in this week's "Grazing" column. I've visited twice recently and tried out one of Kevin Gillespie's specially designed sundaes. (Gillespie, chef of Woodfire Grill, is a partner in the new store.) I selected the take on Banoffee Pie. These sundaes, $8.95 each, don't look especially large, but, believe me, consuming one of these alone after dinner is a feat that qualifies you for an all-you-can-eat contest.

Before my visits, I grabbed quick meals at Five Guys Burger and Fries and Figo.

I've got to reiterate what I've said in the past: I absolutely do not get the raves people give Five Guys. Wayne and I both ordered cheeseburgers and while their taste was acceptable, the two patties were super thin and dried out. Mayo goes a long way here. The Cajun fries, still dumped into an overflowing cup and closed in a bag, were steamed to their usual limpness.

Maybe the popularity has to do with Five Guys' offering burgers of better quality to the fast-food market when it opened in 1986, before the current burger hysteria took hold of us.

By the way, if you're a fan and have an Android phone, there's a Five Guys app for you.

Figo, which began as a tiny (mainly) takeout shop on Collier Road in Buckhead, has seven locations now. The quality of the food, so good and so cheap in the beginning, has been up and down with the expansion. During my visit to the Edgewood restaurant, I ordered the restaurant's take on eggplant parmesan.

I liked it a lot. Instead of the usual ton of melted cheese it was a hefty serving of layered eggplant atop some marinara sauce, dusted with Parmesan cheese. "You can really taste the eggplant," I told the server, who offered me more cheese and was surprised when I declined it.

The eggplant with a soda actually cost less than my super-calorific meal at Five Guys.