Omnivore - The Sound Table: Smack your lips and dance

Good food, but the parking still sucks


I dined at The Sound Table on Edgewood Avenue Thursday night. It's been a couple years since I ate there, and I was surprised to find the menu of small plates relatively unchanged - or maybe I was just drawn to the same dishes I've liked in the past.

The brick chicken (above) has it all: crispy skin and moist meat, served over sauteed, slightly salty spinach. The usual cooking method for this dish is to "spatchcock" half a chicken. That means you remove the sternum and backbone, allowing you to smash the chicken flat. Then you fry it in a skillet under the weight of a foil-wrapped brick. (You can use another weighted skillet.) After a few minutes you've got half a chicken with super-crispy skin. You don't even miss the batter.