Omnivore - Getting a chopped-liver fix at Henry's Midtown Tavern

New-ish restaurant specializes mainly in pub food


I'm a chopped-liver fanatic. I have been since I was a teenager and bought the stuff at Nosh 'O Rye in the Henry Grady Hotel. Owned by Russian immigrants, it was near the downtown public library, Another deli in the same area was Leb's, site of a famous "sit-in" demonstration during the early years of the Civil Rights struggle. (You can hear a mind-blowing, racist interview on YouTube, recorded in 1964.)

I was happy to find that the new Henry's on 10th Street sells a hearty chopped-liver sandwich (with plenty of egg). It's not traditional. It's made on Texas toast and the chunky liver is topped with fried onions. I'd definitely order it again. The only problem was that the liver was quite cold, congealing it somewhat, until it approached room temperature. That's doubtless a Health Department rule.

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The sandwich was served with a heap of crisp Parmesan fries. My friends said they'd never heard of such a thing, but I reminded the two movie lovers of the powdery toppings available with movie-theater popcorn.

Henry's owner is Maureen Kalmanson, who named the restaurant after her dog. She also owns nearby Campagnolo. Of course, she is taking a big risk by serving even one traditional deli dish on her menu of mainly pub food. Atlantans, as I've written before, are notoriously brutal in their estimation of deli food in Atlanta.

132 10th St. 404-537-4477. www.henrysatl.com. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-midnight.