Omnivore - Checking out the burgers at Hobnob

Can we tone down the seasoning a bit?


Friends and I had a quick lunch Friday at Hobnob. The restaurant was opened in 2010 by Sean and Gilbert Yeremyan, who scored a big success with their first venture, Gilbert's. They also now operate, adjacent to Gilbert's, 10th & Piedmont.

Hobnob was surprisingly subdued Friday, usually a busy day for Midtown lunchers. The patio there is a pleasant hangout on a beautiful fall day. The staff is great. Most of the pub-style food is enjoyable.

I've got a problem with the burgers, though.

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I ordered the Southerner Burger. It has some compelling ingredients: fried green tomatoes with a chipotle-cornmeal crust, tomato-horseradish relish, and goat cheese (above). All of that tasted great. The problem was the meat itself. It was way over-seasoned for my taste. My friends complained likewise. I certainly don't mind subtle seasoning, but when it completely overtakes the taste of the beef, I'm not happy. It's particularly disappointing, because the Yeremyans grind the beef on the premises.

I'm sure there are many people, probably more, who like their burgers highly seasoned. To me, though, such burgers taste like meat loaf. What I do like is lots of pepper and a judicious amount of salt. By the way, as the previous link also explains, don't blend salt into ground beef. It can make the meat gruesome quickly. Instead, sprinkle it on the patty just before cooking. (I'm not implying that Hobnob's burgers don't have good texture. I'm passing on a handy home hint.)