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Omnivore - Knife & Fork on Sobban, Ink & Elm, Kimball House, Hugo's Oyster Bar

Christiane Lauterbach gives Sobban a rare three stars

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  • Courtesy of Sobban



The latest issue of Knife & Fork, written and published by Christiane Lauterbach, is out. It includes four reviews, a tour of Seattle restaurants, and a ton of gossip.

This month's highest-rated restaurant, with three stars, is Sobban, which calls itself a "Korean Southern Diner." If you wonder what that means, consider the lunch menu's "tempura-battered corndogs (photo) with seaweed and spicy bibimbop sauce."

Christiane writes about one dish:

The most ravishing dish on the menu is a slightly rough but magically delicate tofu made in house with hand-ground soybeans and plated on a layer of miso mousse with crisp slivers of apple and a drizzle of soy-ginger reduction.

The cover review is of Kimball House in Decatur. It earns 2.5 stars. A sample:

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What Kimball House does better than anyone else is the combination of raw oysters and absinthe cocktails: up to 18 brilliant varieties of oysters at a time and ten different brands of what some call "the green fairy," a highly alcoholic drink with a bohemian past.

Ink & Elm gets two stars. Like me, Christiane writes, "No matter what you think of the restaurant, you have to agree that it is a weird fit for Emory Village." She loves the decor and service, but is more critical of the food.

Christiane appears to be on an oyster jag. She mentions them in both the Kimball House and Ink & Elm reviews, and also gives a two-star rating to Hugo's Oyster Bar in Roswell.

To subscribe to Knife & Fork, call 404-378-2775.