The Only William at The Sound Table

More so than most of Atlanta’s new breed of boozy eateries, the Sound Table refuses to be pinned down. Is it a restaurant with a kick-ass bar or a bar with a great kitchen? Or perhaps it’s really a hipster nightclub that pays the bills by serving interesting food and drinks.

Frankly, the Sound Table’s indefinable nature only adds to its appeal. And, whatever it is, the place has what may be the city’s most ambitious cocktail menu. The sheer number of original drinks on offer is astounding, with a listing broken down by flavor profile — floral, dry, sweet, citrus, etc. But perhaps even more impressive is the eccentric range of ingredients being blended — from Swedish Punch, a smoky, rum-like liquor, to pink peppercorn syrup — that speaks of many hours of worthwhile experimentation behind the bar.

My eyes were drawn to the list of drinks under the heading “Strong, rich and strange,” which indicates the use of brown liquors and amaros. Something of a cross between a Sazerac and a Manhattan, the Only William is sweeter and, arguably, more easily quaffed than those two manly standards while remaining no less potent. As with a Manhattan, the potion calls for bourbon, vermouth and bitters, but a small spoonful of Maraschino liqueur helps sweeten the mix.

As with a Sazerac, a small amount of Herbsaint is employed — not simply as a wash for the glass, but stirred in. (Actually, the menu indicated absinthe, but my drink was made with Herbsaint Original, which was fine with me.) Finally, a quarter-sized piece of lemon peel is rubbed along the rim and squeezed into the glass. The drink is served neat, like a classic Sazerac.

The result is a complex cocktail with a skillful balance of dry and sweet flavors and a welcome hint of fruitiness. The anise is detectable, but not overwhelming.

And now, the rest of the bar menu awaits ...