The carefully crafted cuisine at sweetly plain TAMARIND has a memorable complexity, even though it’s not giddily garnished with an orchid spray, a la Tamarind’s nearby swanky sister, Nan. Much of the food appears on the surface to be the same as you find in the countless Thai restaurants in Atlanta — nua nam tok, basil rolls, pad Thai — but, believe us, one taste will quickly dispel your long-held belief that all Thai food tastes the same. less...

If Miss Piggy wanted to play Anna to Yul Brynner's king of Siam, she'd definitely go for the grand glamour of NAN THAI FINE DINING. Opened by Nan and Charlie Niyomkul, owners of Tamarind, Nan may be the nation's most posh Thai restaurant, and it's actually quite free of "King and I"-style cliches. The food is arguably no better than Tamarind's, but the extraordinary decor extends to the plating. (Miss Piggy could fashion an entire headdress from the orchids and carved fruits adorning apps and entrees.) Best dish is the whole sizzling fish with dry green curry. Any curry featuring coconut milk is reliable, owing to the restaurant's use of a rare machine that extracts the juice from fresh fruits. "1350 Spring St. 404-870-9933. www.nanfinedining.com" less...

Yep, we know there is a growing number of gourmet Thai restaurants in our city, but during the last year we've become especially enamored of LITTLE BANGKOK. Little it is and you can probably expect a wait for a seat in the kitschily decorated dining room. Direct your attention to the specials board. It's there you will find dishes you often won't see in our city's gourmet Thai spots. Look especially for the fiery papaya salad with beef jerky. Basics are good, too. The sauce for the green curry chicken is lusciously rich. "2225 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404-315-1530." less...

TAMARIND THAI CUISINE's arrival finally answered the question we've all been asking ourselves privately: Does all Thai food taste alike? Our city is full of very good Thai restaurants and Tamarind serves the same dishes many others do. But Charlie and Nan Nikomkul make something especially magical happen to their pad Thai, nua namtok and noodle dishes. Sauces are never thin and seasonings stimulate every aspect of the palate. Fantastic service and great decor too. "80 14th St. 404-873-4888." less...

80 14th St. 404-873-4888 Chef Nan Niyomkul and her family have transformed our vision of the usual Thai restaurant. We had reached the point, with a Thai restaurant on every corner, when it was becoming difficult to tell one panang from another. Then the Niyomkuls opened Tamarind, which offers killer service and an uncommonly lovely decor, as well as extraordinary cuisine. Every dollop of Chef Niyomkul's sauces is a potential reverie, a collage of intense flavors. Mainly, you'll see familiar dishes on the menu, but please believe us, they don't taste like anyone else's. less...

As at Partners and Indigo a decade ago, half the fun at this surprisingly authentic Asian favorite on the Highland strip is the long wait for seats and the sidewalk culture that develops in the interim. Portions aren't big. But hey, neither are Thai people. So order up: spring rolls, salmon curry, Pad Thai, spicy basil chicken, fried rice. less...

Decor, welcoming smiles and servers' costumes create a colorful, upscale south-of-Bangkok ambience that's happily matched by the palace-hotel-style cooking and elaborate presentations. Peppers, sugar and fish sauce are used with restrained abandon, resulting in memorable satays and soups. Start with nam sod (a pork, peanut and ginger salad) and tod mun pla (spicy fishcakes). Continue with a green or Indian-style curry, spicy lamb or crispy duck. Reservations accepted. less...