Kitchen Witch - All thanks to Mr. Ice Cream
Bill Addison's Vanilla-Bourbon Ice Cream
Blood orange and burnt caramel, crème fraiche and Meyer lemon, brandy-macerated peach. These were the ice cream flavors I had come to hear about over the phone with my friend, the former pastry chef-turned-restaurant critic (and my former editor). He'd rattle them off nonchalantly, as if I knew what he was talking about, and surely he was referring to something off the menu at a hot new restaurant, right?
Think again. The man whose refrigerator housed little more than a jar of mustard was the most detail-oriented, flavor-specific ice cream maker I had ever met. Friends stopping by for a Sunday afternoon catch-up session? Depending on the season, they might get cardamom-infused persimmon, blackberry-lime or a chili-heated watermelon sorbet.
He would go to any length to make the most lavish ice cream, and for that alone, I admired him. In spite of all my culinary training, I had never made ice cream and was in awe of his imaginative ice-creamy spirit. But, I rationalized, Mr. Ice Cream (as I've come to think of him) owned a fancy Italian machine that produced Maserati-style gelato.
The recent market trend of lower-end electric machines designed for the kitchen plebe got me thinking that perhaps I should plunk down the 50 bucks and attempt to say "I love you" with ice cream, just like Mr. Ice Cream.
So I called him, announcing my plans. He assigned me a batch of vanilla (laced with bourbon, of course) so that I could get a handle on the basics of ice cream custard. Put that freezer bowl in the freezer 24 hours ahead, he advised, and let that custard get good and cold.
Dutifully, I prepared my first batch of custard, and when chilled, poured it into my new machine for a 35-minute churn. Then, the moment I had been waiting for arrived. I stuck my spoon in, and it seemed like time (or my heart) had stopped. It was a flavor-cream bomb, without the supermarket "air cream" we've become accustomed to.
I think even Mr. Ice Cream would have been proud.
Bill Addison's Vanilla-Bourbon Ice Cream
1 3/4 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 cups half-and-half
1/2 vanilla bean
7 egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup bourbon
• Place cream and half-and-half in a saucepan. Slice vanilla bean in half, scraping seeds into cream mixture. Add bean and bring mixture to just under a boil over medium heat. Remove from heat and let steep, covered, for 20 minutes.
• Separate eggs. Combine egg yolks with sugar and salt in a bowl, whisking until mixture lightens. Slowly whisk in a small amount (approximately 1/4 cup) of the warm cream mixture to temper the eggs. Transfer egg mixture into saucepan and cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon without running (about 165 degrees).
• Remove from heat. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, removing vanilla bean. Add vanilla extract and bourbon. Place bowl in a larger bowl filled with ice and water.
• When cooled, pour custard into an airtight container and chill completely. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.
• Makes 1 quart.
Culinary questions? Contact Kim O'Donnel at kim.odonnel@creativeloafing.com.