Omnivore - By the glass at... Miller Union

Wine from the Loire meets an egg in celery cream


  • Jimmy Sobeck

By the glass at: Miller Union (999 Brady Avenue, 678-733-8550. www.millerunion.com)

The dish: Farm egg baked in celery cream

The wine: 2008 St. Nicolas Les Clous Fief Vendeens

The pairing: Delicacy on the plate meets gentle blend in the glass

Miller Union has quickly earned high accolades for their deftly executed farm to table cuisine, though the almost exclusively European and California wine list provides many intriguing offerings, and is deserving of its own praise. The restuarant’s bar, which is a simple and welcoming affair perched between the host stand, a wall of windows and the dining room, is a great setting to sample one of the by-the-glass offerings with a quick bite or a full meal.

The 2008 St. Nicolas Les Clous Fief Vendeens is a personal favorite of part-owner and general manager Neal McCarthy. Hailing from the Loire Valley of France, this blended organic and biodynamic wine is a wonderful balance of chenin blanc and chardonnay. The initial flavors of salty butter and a touch of oak is accompanied by a light amount of chenin blanc acidity and stone fruit, eventually giving way to a slightly mineral finish.

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