Omnivore - Can you please eat some pork fat

Visits to the Shed and Eclipse di Luna


Sliders, sliders everywhere. Wednesday night was my usual visit to the Shed at Glenwood. I know, I know: You're tired of hearing about it, but I need to rant.

Among this week's choices was my favorite made with soft chicharrones in green sauce. That's globs of pork fat with some skin attached — you know, like pork rinds — stewed until sloppy in a tangy tomatillo sauce. I used to pig-out regularly on tacos filled with these when I lived in Houston and Mexico.

Unfortunately for me, it's very rare for chef Lance Gummere to make them, because practically nobody orders them. In fact, Wednesday night they sold only seven, and two of those were mine. Truth be known, they are rarely available even at the city's "authentic" taquerias.


Their avoidance is another example of the timid Atlanta palate. I wish people would be a little more adventurous. I mean, order one of the sliders and take a big $3 risk that you'll discover something new and delicious. I know, it doesn't sound healthy, but think of it as a new way to eat the fat you're consuming every day, anyway.

And speaking of sliders with Latino themes, Eclipse di Luna doesn't call its new menu addition a slider, but it kind of is. It's a solid but fluffy biscuit split and layered with a slightly sweet ropa vieja.

I also recommend another new dish, Brussels sprouts over a navy-bean stew. The menu doesn't warn you, so I will: it's full of chopped raw garlic, something my stomach doesn't handle well. I returned it to the kitchen and they offered to prepare it without the garlic. Delicious.