Review: Saskatoon (1)

The hosts, owners and wait staff at Saskatoon are very happy to see me. Not because I'm a critic – there's no doubt that my secret is safe here – but because I'm a customer. Any customer. It's 7 p.m. on a Friday night and the dining room is empty, save for the looming taxidermied heads that peer out from the walls. With his penetrating gaze and considerable heft, Mr. Buffalo is especially impressive. Or something.

Saskatoon, named after a small bush native to northwestern America, has been in business in Greenville, S.C., since 1996. The original restaurant's website says, "After 13 years of success, the steakhouse franchise Saskatoon restaurant is now ready to offer other entrepreneurs a WILD and DELECTABLE Food Franchise Opportunity ... a chance to own a Saskatoon Franchise Restaurant!!!" Buckhead is the landing spot for the first franchisee, Yash Patel.

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(Photo by James Camp)