Bar Review - Irish eyes a-smilin’

Fadó is all about 25- to 50-year-old professionals in casual dress, crammed into a tight space, beered-up and looking for love. It’s authentic all right — authentic Buckhead. Even so, it’s the least posey and Buckhead of the Buckhead bars. Maybe it’s authentically Irish too. I’ve never been to Ireland, so I can’t say for sure. But I can’t imagine that any pub in Ireland would install a decorative old-fashioned iron well pump just to make itself look older and more Irish.

The bar’s true claims to Irishness are beer and soccer. The beverage specialty of the house is, of course, Guinness. Any experienced Guinness drinker can tell you that it’s a temperamental beer that must be poured “correctly” to be truly appreciated, and by all (heavily slurred) accounts, the bartenders at Fadó know how to pour.

As for soccer, Fadó is so serious about the European “football” matches it shows on TV in the bar, that an extensvie schedule is posted on its website

Mercifully, Fadó’s food menu isn’t hung up on being authentically Irish. You’ll find fish-and-chips, but you’ll also find more contemporary dishes like quesadillas, turkey sandwiches and Portabella mushroom salads. The house specialty is a rolled potato pancake called a boxty filled with meat, chicken, veggies or fish.

As far as authenticity is concerned, I’d say Fadó ranks somewhere between Irish Spring and Riverdance. But it’s still a fun, friendly energetic place to throw back a Guinness and fend off members of the opposite sex intent on getting their hands on your Lucky Charms.

Fadó, 3035 Peachtree Road, Buckhead. 404-841-0066. www.fadoirishpub.com/atlanta.html??