Feedbag - Come fly with me
Romance after dark at Candler Park's Flying Biscuit
What is it with Atlanta and going out to breakfast? We're obsessed. And it's an obsession I've never really understood, frankly. Saturday morning rolls around, and we're suddenly all masochists, willing to stand on the sidewalk in the pouring rain for an hour to get a table at the Flying Biscuit. Don't get me wrong. The Biscuit does indeed serve a great breakfast. But is it worth the punishment? They're just eggs.
Dinner — now there's a different story. The place mostly clears out after 2 p.m. At breakfast, Flying Biscuit's decor is quirky and cheerful, but once the sun goes down, a romantic mood sets in. Walls that were bright orange in daylight mellow to a honeyed sienna. Candles on tables cast everything in a rosy glow. Frank Sinatra croons softly from the stereo. Grownups outnumber the kids. I'm telling you, it's an entirely different place. It's still got that slightly goofy vibe the Biscuit is known for (when was the last time you ordered "pudge" on a date?), but that's what makes it all the more endearing.
The dinner menu is full of down- home recipes with an earth-mother wholesomeness to them. A recent special of chicken and dumplings was the essence of fall comfort food: chunks of roast chicken, carrots, peas and fluffy dumplings in a hearty, creamy sauce. The dish took me back to my childhood, though I don't know why — my mother never made it. I suppose it just struck a homey chord. Fried green tomatoes were also great, by turns easygoing and tart. What's an essentially simple dish took on a layer of complexity with the addition of goat cheese and a dollop of honey-sweet cashew relish.
Another dish I'm extremely fond of is the fried egg salad. I first tried it during a brief stint on the South Beach Diet, when carbs were verboten. Mixed field greens, tossed in balsamic vinaigrette, are topped with fried eggs, rosemary potatoes and turkey bacon. The entire thing is drizzled with chipotle aioli. OK, so it's not exactly diet food. But it's a great, inventive way to use breakfast ingredients at dinnertime. I mean, if you're going to gorge on eggs, bacon and potatoes, why not toss in a little salad for good measure? It's a fantastic combination.
Here's the kicker: Breakfast is served all day! You don't have to subject yourself to an hour on the sidewalk to get the smoked salmon scramble or the Meggxican Wrap. And nearly everything on the dinner menu comes with a gigantic, fluffy biscuit. It's a win-win situation.
Covering Brookhaven to Inman Park
BABY'S GOT SAUCE — The giant burrito trend continues to flourish ... A new outlet of Chipotle Mexican Grill has just opened on Ponce de Leon Avenue in Midtown. The burrito chain is known for its use of organic vegetables, hormone-free chicken, and free-range pork from boutique purveyor Niman Ranch. The new store is located two blocks north of Freedom Parkway at 718 Ponce de Leon Ave. www.chipotle.com.
RAISE YOUR GLASS, MATE — Morton's Steakhouse in Buckhead celebrates the wines of Australia Friday, Nov. 12, at its Pressed for Dinner meal. The dinner features wines from Penfolds, one of Australia's most well-known wineries. Look out for St. Henri Shiraz, Koonunga Hill Semillon Chardonnay, Thomas Hyland Chardonnay, Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz, and Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz. The four-course dinner will feature Morton's classic filet mignon. Cost is $100 per person includes wine, tax and gratuity. A reception begins at 7 p.m., with dinner following at 7:30. 3379 Peachtree Road. 404-816-6535. www.mortons.com.
BREAK-FAST TIME — Through the end of Ramadan Nov. 12, Imperial Fez offers evening meals to break the fast. The three-course dinner, $25 per person, runs from 6-7 p.m. 2285 Peachtree St. 404-351-0870. www.imperialfez.com.
FROM FOREST TO TABLE — On Sunday, Nov. 14, Spice in Midtown holds another special fall dinner. The theme: wild game. The five-course dinner features game from around the South and wine pairings selected to bring out the robust flavors of the dishes. Reservations are requested. The dinner is $55 per person, plus tax and gratuity (wine pairing is an additional $20). Seating begins at 7 p.m. 793 Juniper St. 404-875-4242. www.spicerestaurant.com.
PASTA PERFECTION — This just in: Fresh pastas from Via Elisa, the outfit that supplies pasta to some of Atlanta's best restaurants, will now be available at Whole Foods Market. Be on the lookout for owner Elisa Gambino's irresistible stuffed pastas like tortelloni with ricotta and lemon zest and tortelloni with amaretti and roasted sweet potatoes. Whole Foods Market, 650 Ponce de Leon Ave. 404-853-1681. www.wholefoods.com.
'TIS THE SEASON — Stone crab claws are back on the menu at Buckhead Life Restaurants (Atlanta Fish Market, Kyma, Pano's & Paul's, Bluepointe and Chops/Lobster Bar). The crabs are caught in the Florida Keys and flown in fresh. These delicacies won't be around for long, so make reservations quick. Atlanta Fish Market, 265 Pharr Road. 404-262-3165; Kyma, 3085 Piedmont Road. 404-262-0702; Pano's & Paul's, 1232 W. Paces Ferry Road. 404-261-3662; Bluepointe, 3455 Peachtree Road. 404-237-9070; Chops/Lobster Bar, 70 W. Paces Ferry Road. 404-262-2675. www.buckheadrestaurants.com.??