Omnivore - Peasant Bistro looks like a winner

Today's theme is little round things, like the onions in the dish of short ribs braised in red wine above. Or the minted couscous in the lamb tagine (below) or the lentils in the escarole-topped braised pork belly (right).

These are dishes — all of them quite good — we sampled at the brand-new Peasant Bistro (250 Park Ave. West, 404-230-1724) downtown across from Centennial Park, a minnow's throw from the Aquarium. The new restaurant features French-Mediterranean dishes by chef Shane Devereaux, who comes to Atlanta from Philadelphia where he worked for French master chefs Dominique Filoni, Jean Marie LaCroix and Jean Francois Taquet.

The new restaurant is elegant and playful with the main dining room upstairs, overlooking the bar below. There are taupe walls, white brick, flashy lighting and a great staff.

I've got one complaint. The handicapped access sucks. To get to the upper floor you have to manage a dramatic curved stair case — or ask to be transported in the service elevator. And once you're upstairs, at least one portion of the dining room is accessible only by a few steps.

The restaurant is also open for lunch. I'll have much more to say in a few weeks.

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